

Manual of Hand Work 




For Use in 




Daily Vi 


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^ The Century Go. 






1921 


LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 


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Manual of Hand Work 



For Use in 



Daily Vacation Bible Schools 




Issued by 

The International Association 

Of Daily Vacation Bible Schools 



90 Bible House 



New York 









Copyright, 19 16 

BY 

THE KNICKERBOCKER PRESS 

Copyright, 192 i 

by 

THE CENTURY CO. 



ACKNOWLEDGMENT 



The publishers acknowledge their deep indebtedness to Mrs. Robert G. 
Boville who has been the inspiration and guiding spirit in the preparation 
of this book from the initial idea to the completion of the work, and whose 
generosity has made the book possible. 

90 Bible House, 

New York City. 



MM -3 192/ 



©CLA611896 



FOREWORD 

" Work without religion degrades man into a beast of burden, a machine. 
Religion without work is liable to be lost in empty dreams." 

What has a Daily Vacation Bible School to do with handwork, why 
should it occupy a place in the program? Because (i) God has put hand- 
work in the program of every life, and unless men and women can find God 
in their work, the larger part of life's activities will be deprived of motive, 
point of view and inspiration that comes only from God the Eternal Worker. 
(2) God has put His thoughts, which we call natural laws, right into the ma- 
terials necessary for work in our schools, and to boys and girls it is easy to 
show that in handwork they are face to face with a process that corresponds 
to their own development, and wood, brass and all other material used, lead 
us back to God. (3) As the spirit in which we work transmutes everything 
we touch into character, it follows that if children can be taught to do their 
very best, when at work for others, with only a share, or no share at all for 
themselves, then they are acquiring one of the highest and rarest of spiritual 
gifts, unselfishness. 

Teachers of handwork, understanding these principles, should plan to 
make the work productive of moral growth and further to connect the day's 
work with the day's Bible lessons and Habit Talks. If the handwork is 
map-making, sand-table work or preparation of Bible books illustrated with 
pictures, the connection is obvious. But even sewing may recall a Bible 
event and children enjoy finding the passages, e. g., the story of Samuel's 
little coat, of Dorcas, the hem of the Savior's garment. 

If the pupils make toy animals, have the story of Noah looked up. If 
the child is working with plasticene and models a bird, why not have it a 
sparrow, and the child read from the Sermon on the Mount, its significance 
as showing God's minutest Providence? 

Try to awaken in the child love for perfection, for beauty, for order, and 
so awaken in the spirit, love of work and honesty in its execution. It is 
not at all necessary to have all the members of a group making like arti- 
cles. Indeed, it is preferable to have each boy and girl project or plan his 
own work as far as possible, the teacher advising and suggesting to those 
who have little initiative. Group work should also be planned. 

By this method, the ability to think ahead, to forecast, to learn to use 
material at hand, is acquired. The handwork becomes a mental and moral 

iii 



' 



training. It has been found that this self-expression arouses great interest 
and while at first results may be crude, the final results are better. 

Not the making of things but the making of better boys and girls — this 
is the purpose of the manual period in the Daily Vacation Bible School. 
The hour given to hand- work, following immediately after the Bible lesson, is 
the teacher's opportunity to get close to the children and to bring home to 
them, in the spirit of the Bible Hour, valuable lessons in thought for others, 
self-control, patient industry, and honest effort to do their best. And if 
during this hour the children learn to use material which they can afford 
to the best advantage in their homes, making them more livable and attrac- 
tive, by so much have the home resources been increased and the lives of 
the children been broadened. 

No work yields the joy of satisfaction in the finished product and no work 
is complete unless the worker's personality and invention becomes a telling 
part of it. Let the slogan of every day's lesson be: "A Workman that needeth 
not to be ashamed." 

If this book inspires a greater regard for honest work, for quality and 
not mere quantity, among Daily Vacation Bible School teachers and chil- 
dren, the purpose of the publishers will have been fulfilled. 



IV 



TABLE OF CONTENTS 



PAGE 



Foreword ..... 












- 


iii 


Baskets Woven and Coiled 












49-56 


Grass and Husk 












. 56 


Pine Needle 


' 












55 


Raffia over Hemp Cord 














54 


Reed .... 














50 


Straw 














56 


Chair Caning .... 












57-58 


Construction .... 












17-26 


Pasting .... 












18 


Raffia Work : 












. 19 


Cord Work . . . . 












72-75 


Hammock Netting 












• 74 


Knots 












. 72 


Crocheting .... 












39-42 


Description of Stitches 












• 39 


Models . 














40 


Daily Vacation Bible School, The 












1-10 


Children's Free-will Offering 












9 


Cost .... 












5 


Daily Program . 














6 


Equipment 














5 


How to Start a School 














4 


National Organization 














2 


Origin .... 














1 


School of Methods 














9 



PAGE 



Staff 










5 


Women's International Auxiliary . 








8 


Fundamentals of Hand Work . 








H-19 


Annual Bazaar .... 








12 


Bible Manual Work . 








. 14 


General Suggestions . 








12 


Hospital Gifts Made by the Children 








12 


Kindergarten .... 








■ 15 


Material — Treatment of 








12 


Occupations for Various Ages 








. 15 


Knitting ..... 








45-48 


Description of Stitches 










46 


Models . 










. 46 


Rug Making 










63-71 


Braided . 










• 65 


Colonial . . . 










. 6 7 


Crocheted 










• 65 


Flat 










• 65 


Hooked . 










. 69 


Indian Blanket . 










. 69 


Sewing .... 










27-38 


Description of Stitches 










29 


Implements 










• 27 


Materials 


e o • 






27 


Models 


• 






37 


Weaving . 


• • • 






59-6i 


Various Looms . 


• o • 






. 60 


Models .... 


. 






61 


Wood Sloyd .... 


o o 






76-78 


Equipment 


a o a e 




. 76 


Models .... 


• a 


a 


o 




- 78 



VI 



Daily Vacatioh 

Bible School 
open here 

JULY- to AUGUST— 
BOYS! 

AMD 

GIRLS! 

Come, Learn to Make Useful Things! 

Kindergarten for the Little Ones 
And a Happy Time for AH 

SINGING BIBLE STORIES 

GAMES HANDWORK 

OUTINGS 



The Daily Vacation Bible School 



Its Field: 
Social 



CHAPTER I 

For more than two months in the year, school supervision is 
withdrawn from 18,000,000 children in this country. Of this 
number over a million and a half boys and girls spend the 
sixty-two summer vacation days on the streets exposed to physical and 
moral dangers and untouched by any organized philanthropy. Church 
buildings accessible to these children should be equipped as daily welfare 
centres. 

Out of the population of children between three and eigh- Religious 

teen years of age, at least 10,000,000 are not enrolled in any 
Sunday School. The summer vacation is the opportunity of the year for 
the Church to supply this need in Daily Vacation Bible Schools. 

The functions of the Daily Vacation Bible School are three- its Functions: 
fold : Threefold 

(a) To promote the social welfare of children irrespective 

of race or creed by giving them competent leaders and teachers, suitable 
and happy occupations, systematic oversight in games and good songs, and 
above all by combining with this program religious training and practical 
Bible teaching which is the supreme need of childhood. 

(b) To promote the community use of church buildings in cities and 
rural districts for child welfare on broad, non-sectarian lines, especially 
when Public Schools are closed in summer. 

(c) To employ in this field of service alert college men and women who 
are inspired with the spirit of social service and who are fitted to be leaders 
of children in worship, work, and play. 

The Daily Vacation Bible School movement was founded its History 
in New York in 1901 by the present International Director of 
the Association, whose attention was drawn to the need of bringing together 
idle children, idle churches, and idle students for community welfare on the 
East Side. As an experiment, five church buildings of the Baptist com- 
munion were opened for Daily Vacation Bible Schools, in which manual 

1 



work, organized play, and Bible study went hand in hand. These schools 
were so successful from the start that they were repeated and multiplied 
in following years, and 1905-6 were introduced into churches of seven 
communions, in which they are still conducted. 

In 1907 the call from other cities for the introduction of 
National these schools ma( j e it apparent that the time had come for 

the creation of a National organization that should have for 
its sole mission the deepening and extension of the movement. In 191 1 the 
Daily Vacation Bible School Association was incorporated under the laws 
of the State of New York. The Rev. Robert G. Boville has served as 
National Director since 1907. In that year the number of schools was 19; 
of centres, 4; teachers, 70 and children, 5,083. In 191 5 the movement had 
extended to 78 centres, 339 schools, 2,731 teachers, and 73,058 children. 
The average cost in 191 1 for each child enrolled during the entire six weeks 
was 98 cents; in 191 5, 79 cents. 

In October, 191 6, the Association authorized the creation 
Internationa o £ a new or g an i za tion to continue its work and to be known 

as The International Association of Daily Vacation Bible 
Schools. This new organization is democratic, being controlled by active 
members appointed by churches that conduct or assist Daily Vacation Bible 
Schools. It is interdenominational. Mr. Russell Colgate has been president 
since 19 14. During the past few years there has grown up a well organized 
branch of Daily Vacation Bible Schools in China. Mission Colleges and 
missionary leaders cooperate. 

1. To take the children off the streets for six weeks in 
Results Worth summer is worth while. Their lives are safer, their habits 
While are better, and their parents are freer from anxiety. 

2. To keep their hands busy, to eliminate quarrels in 
their games, to instill patriotism, is worth while — it improves their morals 
and develops their spiritual nature. 

3. To teach as many Bible lessons in six weeks as a Sunday School 
could in seven months is worth while. For many children a Daily Vacation 
Bible School is the only opportunity for such knowledge. 

4. To help in making good future citizens is worth while. Forty 
nationalities and races are represented on the enrollment. 

5. To continue the work during the winter months, in some special 
service or session, is worth while. Vacation Bible Schools usually merge in 
some new form of child welfare activity in churches where they are held. 
In repeated instances a Daily Vacation Bible School has led to a new con- 
gregation being formed or has saved an existing one from extinction. 

6. To bring students into contact with social conditions, to teach them 
service by serving, is worth while. It makes their religion more real. 

7. To put a church in happy relations with a foreign community, to 
prove that it is interested in social well-being, is worth while. It does more 
to win the confidence of the working people than do mere pamphlets con- 
cerning social service. 

8. To provide church societies with an effective method of approach to 



foreign populations is worth while. — The Association has organized or 
helped to organize Daily Vacation Bible Schools as a regular function of 
National Missionary Boards of Presbyterian, Lutheran, and Baptist Com- 
munions and of Trinity Parish, New York. 

Financial support of the movement has come from the follow- Sources of 
ing sources : Support 



From Association memberships — a, Active; b, Associate; c, Life. 

From general contributions. 

From churches for support of schools. 

From colleges supporting schools or scholarships. 

From founders of memorial schools. 

From individual founders of schools or scholarships. 



The following colleges (through faculty action or student 
organizations) have cooperated, some to the extent of sup- 
porting and equipping one or more schools, others by support- 
ing individual students in the work : 



Colleges 
Cooperating 



Amherst 
Boston U. 
Brown 
Chicago U. 
Columbia 
Cornell 



Harvard 

N. C. State Normal 

Occidental 

Princeton 

Southern Calif. U. 

Western Reserve 



Yale 

Auburn Seminary 

Crozer Seminary 

Hartford Seminary 

Rochester Seminary 

Barnard 



Bryn Mawr 
Radcliffe 
Swart hmore 
Vassar 
Wellesley 
Mt. Holyoke 



MEMBERSHIP IN THE ASSOCIATION 



Become an Active Member of the Association 

a, by personal service in or for a school; How to Help 

b, by the payment of ten dollars or more annually. 

Become an Associate Member by the annual payment of any sum 

less than ten dollars. 
Become a Life Member by the payment at any one time of five 

hundred dollars, which will be applied on the Endowment Plan. 
Become a Scholarship Founder by the payment of one hundred 

dollars. 
Become a School Founder by the payment of three hundred and 

twenty-five dollars. 
Insert a clause in yoiir will providing for the continuance of your 

annual contribution to "The International Association of Daily 

Vacation Bible Schools." 



ENDOWED SCHOLARSHIPS 

The International Association of Daily Vacation Bible 
Schools is prepared to accept gifts and bequests for an Endow- 
ment Fund, the income from which will be a perpetual source 
of support for the work of the Association. Life memberships will be ap- 
plied to this Fund. Special gifts may also be made to the Endowment Fund 
for Scholarships. The income from this source will be used for equipping 
and paying teachers in the schools of the Association. Two thousand five 
hundred dollars will constitute a sum sufficient to furnish the income neces- 
sary to maintain such a scholarship. 

For the information of friends desiring to make gifts or 
bequests for the work of the Association, it is to be noted that 
the correct corporate name is International Association of 
Daily Vacation Bible Schools. 

All checks should be made payable to Waldron P. Belknap, Treasurer, and 
sent to go Bible House, New York City. 

I give and bequeath to "International Association of 

Form of Da ij y Vacation Bible Schools" the sum of $ to 

eque£ be invested by it as part of its Endowment Fund, the income 

to be applied to the uses of the Association. 



HOW TO START A SCHOOL 

Any church within easy walking distance of a congested district is 
the place for a Daily Vacation Bible School. If the Church 

Pls.cc for 3. 

s . . has a room large enough for the entire school to assemble for 

opening and closing exercises and smaller rooms into which the 
kindergarten, the boys' industrial classes, and the girls' industrial classes 
may retire separately, with sanitary toilets for girls and boys, the church is 
well suited to the work. If the rooms are airy and pleasant it is excellently 
adapted to the purpose. In seasonal work such as this, however, schools 
must adapt themselves to places afforded them. Many a successful Daily 
Vacation Bible School has been conducted with meagre conveniences. 
Some, indeed, have been held in a single room which it has been neces- 
sary to divide among the various classes during the industrial period. 

The success and spirit of a Daily Vacation Bible School 
depend largely upon two factors: The personnel of the teaching 
staff and the attitude of the church itself towards the school. 
Too many churches after opening their doors to schools turn over to the 
teaching staff and the sexton all further responsibility. Every church 
housing or supporting a school should be represented by a committee of at 
least three men and three women, preferably those who will be in the city 
during the school term, who will make the necessary arrangements for the 
school before it opens, visit the school at frequent intervals after it opens, 
and who will confer with the principal upon problems and exigencies. The 



Daily Vacation Bible School is more than a Public School in its effort to 
develop the spiritual as well as the physical and intellectual side of the child. 
And it is of the greatest importance that the atmosphere of the school be 
cheery, sympathetic, and uplifting. It should be part of the church com- 
mittee's duties, before the school opens the first of July, to interest the 
members and societies of the church in the projected school and to give it 
publicity in neighboring churches, schools, and streets. 

Much expense and a good deal of work for the industrial teachers will 
be saved if the various women's societies cut and baste children's under- 
garments and aprons, and crash or gingham work bags for the sewing 
classes and they may also either buy or make three or four dolls and cut 
and baste clothes for them which will also furnish work for the sewing 
classes. The purpose of the dolls is explained in the Introduction to Manual 
Work. Hearty cooperation between the church and the teaching staff and 
the children of the school will insure a helpful, happy holiday of far-reaching 
influence. 

A fully equipped school has four teachers regularly employed and 
paid — one who usually serves as Principal and three who have 
charge respectively of the Music, Industrial, and Kindergarten st ^ 

Departments. This staff should be supplemented where 
possible by volunteers. The total cost of such a school including salaries 
and materials for the industrial classes should not be estimated at less than 
$250. If all the teachers volunteer their services without remuneration, 
the cost of the school will be reduced to $75 or less according to the size of 
the school, to cover the cost of material, the sexton's services, and incidentals. 
If materials are contributed, the cost will be still further reduced. 

The following equipment is essential to a school with an average daily 
attendance of 100 boys and girls: 



STANDARD NECESSITIES 

1 Door Notice (printed on cloth) $ .60 

300 Registration Cards 60 

50 Teacher's Weekly Report Cards 30 

1 Manual of Graded Bible Courses, and Health and Habit Talks. ... 1.00 

1 Manual of Hymns, Songs, and Marches 1.00 

1 Manual of Hymns, Songs, and Marches (New Edition including 

Musical Interpretation) 1 .50 

1 Manual of Handwork 1.50 

1 Supplementary Manual for Training Classes, Teachers, and Kinder- 

gartners, including School Programs in all Departments 25 

Kindergarten Outlines in the Supplementary Manual 25 

Bible Stories for the Kindergarten in the Manual of Graded Bible 

Courses 1 .00 

The average cost of industrial materials for a school of one hundred 
children is $40, if all have to be bought. It is impossible to give detailed 

5 



prices because they change with different years and varying economic con- 
ditions. For lowest current prices, communicate with International Head- 
quarters. Schools that are located in places where supplies cannot be 
obtained will be helped out by Headquarters. 

The school term of six weeks begins on the Monday 
The School f n ow i n g the Fourth of July and the sessions are held daily 
except Saturday and Sunday. The forenoons are devoted to 
organized school work as described in the program following. The entire 
staff is expected to be at the church at 8 130 in the morning and to remain 
until the records of the day are completed and the rooms have been put in 
order. The hour between 8 130 and the opening of the school at 9 130 will 
be needed for street work in looking up children, calling at their homes 
if necessary, and bringing them to the school. One member of the staff, 
meanwhile, should remain in the church to prepare for the day's work. 
The street work will be needed from the first to the last day of school. 



DAILY PROGRAM 

First Hour Taught with sand-table, or 

Given with stereopticon, or 
8.30- Preparation and visitation by staff. Told as story by the teacher. 

9.00 — Doors open and registration. 

Third Hour 
Second Hour 

10.30 — Manual work and play in sections. 
9.15 — Opening Exercises, all present. 

Hymn. 11.25 — Closing exercises — School reassem- 

Psalm or other portion, repeated in bles. 

concert. Daily salute to flag. 

Lord's Prayer — said or sung. "America" or Hymn. 

Bible Verse and Hymn. Christian Salute. 

Kindergarten goes out. Children's Benediction. 

Health and Habit Talk. March out to music. 
Thankoffering for Extension. 

Bible Memory Work. Afternoon— Two Hours 

9.40 — Musical period. 2.30 — Open-air games organized and 

Vocal and breathing exercises. directed. 

Singing lesson. Excursions. 

Calisthenics with music. Visitation of homes. 

10.05 — Bible lesson in two or more groups. Student Conference, Monday. 



„ An attendance card should be given to each child when 

Records ^ 

he or she first enters the school and should be marked every 
day that he or she comes. Samples are furnished at headquarters. 

A Report Card showing the number in attendance, etc., should be filled 
out and mailed daily or weekly to the Superintendent of the Schools as the 
Principal leaves the School. The Superintendent should enforce this 
measure. 

6 



To keep a complete record of the Schools is impossible unless every 
School sends this Report Card. These records are of the greatest impor- 
tance to the local Superintendent as well as to the International Association. 
The keynote of any work of this kind is loyal cooperation. In cities where 
there are several Schools much time and the expense of carfare will be saved 
the Supervisors if the Principals notify the Superintendent of projected 
days' outings two days before they occur. "Day's outing" and the date 
on the Record card will save futile visits from the Supervisors. 

Days' outings are a happy feature of the Daily Vacation 
Bible School. Their frequency is left to the discretion of the 
Principal under the sanction of the Superintendent. The last week of 
school should have no outing. All attention then should be focused on 
preparations for the closing day. At intervals during the school term, the 
entire school or the girls alone, since the boys are cared for by the Principals 
every afternoon, should assemble at the church for some kind of a treat — 
lemonade and cake or ice cream and cake — and at these times there should 
be games and a general festive occasion. The church committee or friends 
should provide funds for these treats. 

Preceding the opening of the Schools the first of July, there should 
be a Three-Day Conference of five sessions and every Princi- 
pal and Teacher should answer to the roll call at the opening „ , 
^ . . Conference 

of each. These sessions should be devoted to general exercises 
of an inspirational nature and to a definite outlining and planning of all the 
various departments of the Schools — Bible, Music, Industrial, and Kinder- 
garten, each under the direction of its supervisor. 

Every Monday afternoon during the school term, a conference should 
be held in some central place at which every Principal and 
Teacher should answer the roll call. The program should „ on ay 
include an open discussion on the experiences and problems 
of the previous week, an outline and preview of the Bible and Music work 
for the week, and a full hour should be given for Industrial and Kinder- 
garten instruction in the coming week's work, with the Supervisors in charge 
of their various sections. 

The exercises of the closing day of school should be left Closing 

to the discretion of the Superintendent. Where it is feasible, Exercises 

it is an advantage for all the schools of the city to meet in some central 
hall for a general celebration. In any case, each school should have its 
own closing exercises. Programs for the day should be made up largely of 
concerted exercises by the children and exhibition of the work done by the 
industrial classes and they should include recitals of the portions of Scrip- 
ture learned during the terms and the giving out of medals to those who 
have learned all the passages prescribed by the course. 

In cities where the number of schools warrants it, there 

should be a local Daily Vacation Bible School organization 

J . & zation 

with a central office and Superintendent and Treasurer. 

This organization should be affiliated with the International Daily Vacation 

Bible School Association which, from its central office in New York, will 



advise on all vexing questions and furnish help as it is needed. The local 
Superintendent should select the Principals and staffs of the schools and 
pass on all volunteer helpers. The Superintendent should be ready at all 
times to confer with Principals and Teachers on difficulties and problems. 
Four Supervisors will be needed, each a specialist in her department — Bible, 
Music, Industrial, and Kindergarten. 

To start a school, the first step is the raising of the neces- 
How to Start gary money an( j t j ie nn ding of a church to house it. A school 
may be supported in various ways : by the church in which it 
is to be held; by contributions from societies and individuals in the church 
where it is to be held; by a group of churches in a neighborhood, when it 
becomes a neighborhood school; by a school or college; or, as a memorial to 
one who has gone. Various schools and colleges have furnished the money 
with which to pay the teaching staff of schools. In such case, the school 
may take the name of the school or college by which it is supported. In 
the case of a Memorial School, the school takes the name of the person for 
whom the memorial is given. When a college or church provides the money 
for a school, it may select its own staff under the sanction of the Superin- 
tendent. But to save complications, all moneys should be paid to the Local 
Treasurer and all salaries should be paid by him. 

In every city where there are a number of schools there 

should be a local organization which is federated with the 
Auxiliary . . 

International Association. This organization should be made 
up of representatives from all the Protestant churches of the city and its 
work should be the interesting of the public in the work of the Daily Vaca- 
tion Bible Schools, the extension of these schools throughout its own city 
and county, the raising of money for needy schools, and a keen interest in 
the success of such schools. 

The Women's International Auxiliary, founded in 1912 as 

'Worn &t\ s t 

I at'onal ^ e Women's League, is organized to secure in every centre 
Auxiliary women's cooperation with the extension plans of the Inter- 

national Association. The Auxiliary is composed of an 
International, Interdenominational Board whose object is to raise funds for 
missionary extension in all lands. In addition to the Board, the Auxiliary 
is made up of State Vice-Presidents, chairmen in centers, organized Chap- 
ters, and members at large. 

To lose sight of the children of the Daily Vacation Bible Schools when 
After School t ' ie sc ^ 00 ^ s close in August is a sad economic waste from both 
Closes t ^ e social and religious standpoint. If the work has been 

done with the right spirit during the school term, a bond of 
friendship has been established between the children and the church and 
this spirit is bound to react on the families and the neighborhood to which 
the children belong. 

The beginning of the fall Sunday School work is the time to make this 

inendship permanent by looking up the children of the school and inviting 

iem back to the church if they have no other church connections. For 

this reason the children's registration and attendance cards which are 

8 



to be kept daily by the Principals should be turned over to the proper officer 
of the church upon the close of school. 

It has happened more than once in the cities that the mob has hissed 
a speaker who has mentioned the Church and has applauded later at the 
name of Christ. The mob recognized no connection between the two — 
the Church and Christ. In what surer way can the Church demonstrate 
to the masses that Christ and the Church are one in Love for His People 
than by giving its big cool rooms to little ones who have only the sidewalk 
for a playground during the most trying weeks of the year? 

CHILDREN'S FREE WILL OFFERING 

The Daily Vacation Bible School should be absolutely free to the child. 
But an opportunity should be given in every school for a Free Will Offering 
from the children and their parents. This offering should be taken in such 
a way that those who cannot give may not be embarrassed. In some 
schools a jar or box with a slot in the top is held by a child while the children 
march past singing, dropping their pennies as they go. 

In some schools envelopes are used. This Offering should be taken after 
the Habit Talk and it should be carefully explained that it is to be used for 
general extension work, to make new schools possible in places there they 
could not be established without the assistance of the general Association. 

SCHOOL OF METHODS 

In every city where there is an allied group of schools, a School of 
Methods should be held weekly for from six to ten weeks to prepare the 
teachers for their summer work. In making appointments, members of this 
school should, as a rule, be given the first consideration. This school should 
have a Principal and if it is possible, the Supervisors of the various depart- 
ments of the Daily Vacation Bible Schools should take charge of their 
respective sections. During the sessions there should be a preview of the 
work laid out for the summer with instruction in methods which character- 
ize Daily Vacation Bible School work. In some cities where there is a 
resident staff these Schools of Methods are held throughout the winter and 
are open to social workers and Sunday School teachers as well as to Daily 
Vacation Bible School teachers. 

A type program for a School of Methods follows : 

BIBLE STORIES— With Historic and Geographic Setting. 
MUSIC TRAINING— How to teach children under fourteen years. 
MANUAL "WORK — Adapted to conditions and materials obtainable. 

Weekly Outline of Study: 

9:30 — Practice of Opening Exercises of a D. V. B. S. 
9:50 — Music Lesson. 10:40 — Bible Lesson. 
11:30 — Manual Lesson. 12:15 — Question Box, Closing Exercises of a D. V. B. S. 



Special Topics: 

Games and Gymnastics. 

Discipline, Reverence, Patriotism. 

Duties of Staff; Use of Registration and Report Cards. 

Children's Thank Offering; Hospital Work; Exhibits and Sales. 

Special Training for Kindergartners at Every Session. 

Fee for entire course varies, being usually $2.00 



IO 




Working for a Children's Hospital 



CHAPTER II 



FUNDAMENTALS 



(i) The aim in manual work should be, not the making of things, but the 
making of more efficient boys and girls. Since careless work strengthens 
bad habits, accept no result that is below the real capability of the maker. 
Treat defects in work as a serious matter and aim to influence the boys and 
girls so that they will volunteer to take out poor work in order to do it 
better. The work hour after the Bible Study is the best time for close 
personal influence. 

(2) In making the following suggestions for industrial work the intention 
is not to cramp the freedom and originality of the staff. Where members 
of the staff have had special training or have natural facility for other lines 
of work, it is for the welfare of the schools that these gifts should be brought 
into play. Any branch of Domestic Science or Domestic Art may be intro- 
duced. The models here submitted may be so varied as to produce a 
great variety of articles, and it is hoped that each school will develop 
original designs. 

Every child in the class should understand the purpose of each piece of 
work which he or she does — whether it is to become his or her own, or the 
school's, or whether it is for the bazaar, the hospital, or other philanthropy. 
This will save disappointment and will stimulate interest and effort. In 
this department more than elsewhere, there is opportunity to arouse the 
spirit of generosity and effort for others. The children too have the privilege 
of making some return for what the school has done for them. 

11 



A bazaar under the direction of the Women's International Auxiliary of 
D. V. B. S. A. is held yearly in New York for the sale of work done in schools 
throughout the country. Every school is asked to contribute two articles 
made by the children for this sale, and to send them to International Head- 
quarters at the close of the school term. The proceeds are turned over to 
the International Association and are used to extend the work throughout 

the country. 

Every school, too, is asked to dress and send two dolls to the children's 
ward of the nearest hospital with a bedstead that fits one of the dolls. This 
work is valuable not only because it is altruistic but also because it allows 
cooperation between the children of the class. Several members of the 
sewing class may be engaged on the various clothes of the dolls' wardrobes 
and on the mattress, sheets, pillowcases, and spread of the bed. In some 
cases it is well to give these articles to shut-in children known to members of 
the class. Boys in certain schools have made box furniture and hammocks 
for the doll's outfit. Other pieces made in the various industrial classes 
should be given to the children who make them or be assigned by the princi- 
pal and teachers to some practical use, such as a sale for the benefit of the 
school another year. There is no surer way to interest the city in Daily 
Vacation Bible School work than by making a display of work done by the 
children during the summer in some public place such as a vacant store 
window on a much traveled thoroughfare. 

Care must be taken to avoid any sign of partiality in the distribution of 
work. 

At the Training Conference which precedes the opening of the schools, 
the Industrial Supervisor should present an outline of the entire work to be 
done during the term, in order that the teachers may know what materials 
are to be required. Children in some cases can bring material for their 
own little garments — underwear and aprons and even very simple one-piece 
dresses — always of wash fabrics. 

GENERAL SUGGESTIONS 

(i) Have all work planned on the previous day. Know how much work 
you wish accomplished and what models you wish to use for all grades. 

(2) Have each child's work prepared with the child's name attached. 
In order to avoid confusion and delay have all raffia, reed, or other material 
placed ready for use, where the lesson is to be given. 

(3) Before the children are allowed to claim any article, they should, if 
possible, pay for the material to be used, and no article should be removed 
from the building until after Commencement. 

In the case of hammock needles a deposit of three cents should be made 
by each boy, to be returned to him when he surrenders his hammock needle 
in good condition. 

(4) Articles completed should be marked with labels, such as those 
supplied, and hung in the schoolroom for decoration and exhibition. 

(5) Work intended for donation to hospitals should be the outcome of 

12 



intelligent sympathy, therefore let a committee from each industrial group 
visit and decide upon a definite hospital, and let every member of each 
group share in the contribution. 

(6) There is no part of the school in which the danger of selfishness is so 
imminent as in this department. The spirit of graft is easily encouraged. 
While avoiding this danger do not fail to recognize the natural and just 
desire of children to make pretty and useful articles for their homes and for 
themselves. 

(7) Watch lest the children imbibe habits of untidiness by leaving the 
floor littered with bits of raffia or other material at the close of the industrial 
hour. Have each child leave his or her work in order and have the children 
take turns in tidying the room. The value of the industrial hour lies as 
much in teaching habits of neatness as in making attractive articles. 

(8) Organize your class by a system of group leaders, so that requests 
for materials or assistance may come through them, otherwise you will be 
surrounded by a clamoring mob of children and the atmosphere of the 
room will become disorderly. 

(9) Let each school send to the International Director specimens of its 
best work, which will be placed on exhibition and subsequently serve as 
models. Each article, carefully tagged with the name and age of its maker, 
and the name of the school, is an incentive to other children to do good work. 

(10) In order to insure prompt receipt of material, notify the Industrial 
Supervisor two full days before it is required and arrange with her as to the 
method of delivery. 

(11) Before entering her class every teacher should have made a perfect 
model of the piece which she is to teach. 

(12) Every teacher should have a workbag with her equipment — 
tape-measure, scissors, pencil, small note-book, pin cushion, needle-book, 
thimble, thread, and emery bag. If her class is advanced she will also need a 
tracing wheel, buttonhole scissors, and shears. As an example to her class, 
if for no other reason, she should wear a neat sewing apron. 

(13) To facilitate the distribution and collecting of work and to keep 
each child's work separate, every member of the class should have a work- 
bag marked plainly with her name, and these individual bags should be kept 
in a large class bag. 

(14) Have an intimate talk with the children the first morning, show 
only the models which they are able to make and give them an opportunity 
to choose the kind of work that they like best to do. Then make it very 
definite that they must finish each piece begun before commencing another. 
Outline to them the work to be done during the term. This will interest and 
encourage them to come regularly. 

(15) Have their work ready when the children come into the class. If 
chairs are movable and there are enough of them, they may be used for 
work tables if tables are lacking. Arrange a crescent of chairs with the backs 
towards the teacher — these are for tables. Then arrange a second row 
facing the teacher — these are for seats. Only half as many will be needed 
for tables as for seats because two children can put materials and utensils 

13 



on one chair. Benches may be arranged like this in a hollow square. Have 
regularly assigned seats for the children and have their workbags in them 
when the children come in. Let them leave the bags there when they go 
out. This will do away with those difficult periods of distributing and 
collecting. 

(16) Do not make anything in the class which is without some utility 
value. Have articles that aie made as useful and attractive as possible. 
If a girl or boy plan the article which he or she is to make, so much more of 
the educational element will be added. Have the growth of the child, not the 
finished piece of work in mind at all times. Hold this thought constantly, 
How well, not how much. 

(17) When a class has finished with a model have an exhibition of the 
work. Let the children decide which piece is best and give the reasons for 
their choice. If several classes are doing the same work, appoint judges. 
Let everything throughout the school he a manifestation of the children. 
In sewing, crocheting, knitting, and other work of the kind, make it emphatic 
that clean work cannot be done with dirty hands nor on a soiled dress or 
apron. After the sewing classes have finished their second model, the 
sewing apron, have the girls put their aprons on daily before beginning their 
work. 

It is to be expected that many summer days will be uncomfortably warm 
and sultry for both teachers and children. During the school hours, it is 
incumbent upon the teachers to overlook entirely their own discomfort and 
to show no sign of it to their pupils. A tired, listless teacher means an in- 
attentive, restless, and finally disorderly class. When the spirit of restless- 
ness becomes too marked during the industrial period, stop the work. It 
will not be done well while things are in this condition. Sing a song, play a 
game, or, if the day is too warm for even slight physical exertion, tell stories 
until there is a change in the mental attitude of the class. Remember that 
it is a "vacation school" and that while system and order must be main- 
tained, the happiness of the children is a prime consideration from beginning 
to close. Books on games and story-telling are many and the teacher who is 
most successful is the one who is supplied with such resources for a time of 
need. 

SPECIFIC INSTRUCTIONS 

A. FOR BIBLE MANUAL WORK 

(1) Bible work may be made an integral part of the industrial hour. 
Each group should prepare a blank-book record of the Bible stories illus- 
trated with pictures and maps to be sent, after Commencement, to the 
Association headquarters. 

Perforated leaves of uniform size may be obtained. Let the binding and 
decoration of these Bible blank books appeal to the pride and artistic 
instinct of the group. Leaves may be made of cambric or heavy wrapping 
paper, and children will fold, cut, and perforate them. 

14 



From any series of Bible pictures or those of the Bureau of University 
Travel illustrations may be selected for these Bible stories. They should be 
pasted upon the blank leaves and the children should write original sum- 
maries of the stories and make the finished pages into books. 

Discarded Sunday School charts, papers, etc., will provide material for 
this purpose. 

(2) Maps drawn with the mountains, rivers, etc., shown by different 
colored crayons, may be made to illustrate the countries described in the 
Bible blank books. 

(3) Nature books may be formed upon the same principle for the study 
of fruits and flowers. 

(4) Animal books and books of heroes and of historical events will also 
prove helpful. 

(5) Sand-table exercises by the children during the manual hour, and 
under direction, can be made to promote interest in Bible lands and give 
clearer ideas of their topography. Wonders of the earth's surface may also 
be illustrated in the sand and definite places should be modelled, picturing 
the environs of the child. 

B. FOR THE KINDERGARTEN 

Papier Mache and Paper 

(1) Strips to decorate the room may be made by cutting fancy discs of 
colored or white paper about one inch and one-quarter in diameter and 
threading them alternately with inch length bits of papier mache straws. 
Ordinary shelf paper will answer for this purpose. Small squares of tissue 
paper, crumpled in the center, may be used in place of the discs. 

This will keep the children interested and occupied while the teacher 
attends to other classes. 

(2) A series of paper articles for a farm set may be drawn, cut out, and 
folded. These would include a cart, wheelbarrow, barn trough, shed, hoe, 
rake, etc. 

(3) A set of furniture would consist of a bed, table, bureau, chair, sofa, 
piano, etc. 

(4) Paper rugs and screens may be decorated with designs which fur- 
nish opportunity for developing originality in the children. 

See also directions under Bible blank books, etc. 

The suggestions here offered are intended only as supplementary to the 
activities of the kindergarten, the program of which is presupposed. 

C. FOR THE SMALL BOYS AND GIRLS 

All models furnished may be used with discretion, giving the easy ones 
first, so that the children may feel that some definite article is completed. 
Models 17 to 24 are more difficult than the earlier numbers and should not 
be attempted until the boys and girls have acquired some facility in han- 
dling the raffia. 

15 



Kite-making attracts the boys, and any other occupation known to the 
teacher may be introduced. 

D. FOR OLDER GIRLS 

(i) Encourage the girls to make practical use of the weaving and other 
stitches learned in the raffia work, by mending and darning their own 
clothing. 

All varieties of fundamental stitches may be applied in hemming hand- 
kerchiefs and dishtowels, and in making aprons, shirtwaists or other gar- 
ments. One class wore at Commencement the dresses made during the 
school term. Let the girls furnish their own material for these larger articles, 
and as their taste may not be always good the teacher can quietly direct the 
choice of material. 

At least once a week have darning and mending lessons, encouraging 
the girls to bring and mend their own clothing. When practicable, make 
this work more interesting by reading a short story while they are busy. 
If feasible, offer a reward for the largest number of articles nicely mended. 

(2) Have each school furnish a doll's bedstead to be given to a children's 
ward in some hospital. Make matress, two pillows, two sheets, two pillow- 
cases, blanket, and counterpane, applying each stitch learned. Stuff 
mattress and pillows with tiny bits of raffia saved each day, paper torn or 
cut in small pieces, tiny bits of leftover material or anything that will stuff 
without making lumps. This will furnish occupation for nine girls, thus 
making it a representative gift from the school. The girls may be taught 
by this small outfit how to make up a bed properly. 

These beds and other pieces of furniture may be made of wood or from 
pasteboard boxes. 

An entire doll house may be furnished, the older boys making the house 
from packing boxes. The curtains, rugs, bed spreads, etc., may be woven. 

E. FOR OLDER BOYS 

The following occupations are attractive and useful : 

Rake Knitting: Rugs may be made over the teeth of a rake as the spool 
knitting is done. The boys can make their own rakes by inserting dowels 
in a piece of wood. 

Rug Weaving: A loom can be made of four pieces of wood (like a slate 
frame) with nails driven in top and bottom to hold the warp, or a good loom 
may be made of the covers and bottoms of boxes, by notching each end to 
hold the warp. Carpet factories will give odd bits of wool which can be 
woven on the loom and then the pieces may be sewed together for a rug. 
Rugs may be woven over packing boxes. 

Chair caning: Boys may bring chairs from home, and pay for the cane 
required to repair them. 

Carpentry: With a few tools the boys could be taught to make many 

attractive articles which would be of use in their homes, and the hammock 

needles could all be made in the schools. Furniture, etc., may be made of 
packing boxes. 

16 




Scrap Basket, Model 2 



Doll Scrap-book, Model 1 



CHAPTER III 
CONSTRUCTION 

A. PASTING 

I. Material: 

Spon-tem is a paste powder which is sold in any quantity at ten cents a 
pound, and is more economical than ready-made paste because it may be 
mixed in quantity sufficient for each day. It is found where book-binding 
supplies are kept. To prepare it for use mix with water, putting each 
child's portion upon a piece of cardboard or into a small pan or shell. 
Wooden splints are advisable for applying the paste, when only a small 
amount is needed. When a large surface is to be covered, apply with a 
soft brush or cloth. 



II. Models: 

Paper cambric scrapbook. 9 x 12 in. is a good size. Cut two yards of 
material lengthwise for two books, and have the selvage towards the chil- 
dren for the bottom of the page. Many children may be engaged on this book 
at the same time, some arranging and some pasting, while others cut out the 
pictures. Have one such book made in each school for a children's hospital. 
Interest the children who are well in giving happiness to their sick little 
comrades. 

Great care should be used in the selection of color. Olive green and seal 
brown are safe tones for a background. To prevent fraying, notch the edges 

17 



or blanket stitch or overhand them with some harmonious color of cord 
such as silkateen, etc. Paste attractive colored pictures on the outside. 
These books may be used to mount pictures illustrating the Bible story, 
habit talk or nature talk, or for pictures of basketry, samples of sewing, 
or hand embroidery. The older children may keep them as a record, thus 
framing each day's program, illustrated by descriptions, pictures, and 
models. In all things bring out the individuality of the child and endeavor 
to have one occupation dovetail into another. 

Scrapbook with Paper Doll: (Model I.) This is a good gift for a 
hospital. Dimensions of page 6 x 9 in. Fasten the pages together with 
raffia or cord of an attractive color. Fashion books and magazines often 
have pages of paper dolls that the children may cut out and mount in these 
books. Colored fashion plates are a substitute for dolls, the children making 
the dolls' clothing of colored paper or painting the cut-out, uncolored 
fashion plates. The number of pages will be determined by the amount of 
material for the book. Four leaves, including the front and back, are usu- 
ally enough. Use heavy manila wrapping paper or manila drawing paper. 
Pockets of paper are fastened to each page to hold the doll, dresses, and 
hats. Paste on a paper pocket near bottom of page and gum a strap one- 
third distance from top. 

Scrap Basket: (Model 2.) This model is popular with the older boys 
who can calculate dimensions. The basket may have a square or round 
bottom and the sides may be straight or sloping. Sloping sides are more 
attractive. For a useful basket make the base 8 inches square, and side 
pieces 12 inches deep, for the height, and 8 inches at one end and 10 inches 
at the other. If a circular basket is wanted, cut a round base 10 inches in 
diameter and a rectangle 12 inches deep and long enough to go around the 
base. 

Samples of wall paper to cover the cardboard foundation will be given 
by firms who sell wall paper. Some of the children may be able to collect 
left-over rolls from their own or their friends' homes. Suit boxes and backs 
of tablets make excellent foundations for baskets. The ingenuity and in- 
dividuality of teacher and pupils together will work out useful articles at 
trifling cost. 

Pasting: In pasting, cover the cardboard rather than the paper with 
paste and place this pasted side upon the wrong side of paper. Press firmly 
until perfectly smooth. To begin, lay the larger piece of paper wrong side 
up on a smooth table or board, place on it the pasted cardboard, paste the 
four flaps of the paper, and fold over the edge. Cover all pieces on one side 
first so that the first piece will ( be dry before covering the second side. 
Cover the second side of cardboard with paste and place upon the smaller 
piece of paper that just fits it. 

Joining: Punch holes along the sides 2 inches apart and 3^2 inch from 
edge. Fasten together with raffia, or cord. 

The boys and girls can cooperate, the boys covering paper boxes with 
fancy paper or cretonne for girls' sewing boxes. 

Additional suggestions will be found in the following books: Manual 

18 




fe. 



MADE BY DAILY VACATION BIBLE SCHOOL CHILDREN. 



Training — Cardboard Construction, by J. H. Tryborn; When Mother Lets 
Us Cut Pictures, by Ida E. Boyd, published by Moffat, Yard & Co., N. Y. 
City. 

Doll Furniture and Toys Made of Pasteboard Boxes: (Model 3.) 
Many helpful suggestions may be found in the following books by G. 
Ellingwood Rich, published by Moffat, Yard & Co., New York City, When 
Mother Lets Us Make Paper-Box Furniture and When Mother Lets Us 
Make Toys. 

B. RAFFIA 

I. Material: 

(1) Wet the natural raffia before using it, and as you work, dampen 
it a little unless using it over cardboard. The best way to prepare raffia 
for use is to wrap it in a damp cloth for a day or two. 

(2) All raffia in use should be opened and the bunches hung up so that 
threads may be easily drawn. 

(3) Give each child a few strands only, at a time, to avoid waste and to 
inculcate a spirit of economy and carefulness. 

(4) The children will at first call for colored raffia, and unless influenced 
and guided, will make crude combinations. More artistic results are 
obtained by using very little color. 

(5) When making discs for single weaving, have an odd number of holes, 

II, 13, 17, etc. 

(6) When braiding raffia, make one long string which may be turned 
back and forth to fit the length desired when finished. 

(7) For burlap mats or other work where the effect of beads is desired, 
melon or squash seeds may be used, after soaking, by threading with a sharp- 
pointed needle. 

(8) Save bits of raffia to stuff mattresses, pillows, cushions, etc. 

(9) Raffia is the product of the Madagascar palm. It is sold at retail 
in large hanks at 25c.-4.oc. a pound. The wholesale price is less. 

II. Models. 

A. RAFFIA USED WITHOUT OTHER MATERIAL 

Doll: (Model 1.) This may be made interesting by braiding the raffia 
for the hair or for a hat, using colored raffia as ribbon. Cut strands of 
raffia 14 inches long. The size of the doll determines the amount of raffia 
needed. Tie all firmly together in middle. Double the strands, using the 
place where they are tied together for the crown of the head. Before tying 
down for the neck, separate from the main portion of the raffia a sufficient 
quantity for the hair. For a girl doll have the hair 4 inches long, braid and 
tie with colored raffia at top and bottom. One inch below crown, tie with 
raffia to represent the neck line. Then from the main portion separate 
strands of raffia on either side to serve as arms. Cross so that the strands 
from the right side form the left arm and vice versa. The remainder of the 

19 




Candy box and cover 




Box fastened through bottom to top of cover 
One end of each cut away. 



1 




Parts of box and cover cut away to form 
lec;>s -handles-body- wheel supports 




Two button nnolds ^lucd together to form wheel. 
Hairpin axle - beads on axle each side of wheel. 



Details of Wheelbarrow. 

FROM "WHEN MOTHER LETS US MAKE TOYS," 

BY G. ELLINGWOOD RICH, COURTESY OF MOFFAT, YARD AND COMPANY 

20 




Two candy boxes-same size 

^ Eight wooden button molds 
About 18 inches of copper wire 
A few beads 





Box- bottom up 
Cover fastened.to it 



Body of Cdrm^e shaped 
Bottom shaped to hold axles 




\. — -{-— 



Canopy cut from 
one end of the 
second box 



l<Min§down 

on 
carriage floor r-"--"-* 



Wire pushed through holes at back 
down through holes in floor- 
bent back flat under the bottom 




Handle bent up Canopy pivoted with fasteners 
and curved- wires W h eels = two button molds 
covered by. seat coined to$ether-ba'ir pin axles 



Details of Doll Carriage. 

FROM "WHEN MOTHER LETS US MAKE TOYS," 

BY G. ELLINGWOOO RICH, COURTESY OF MOFFAT, YARD AND COMPANY 

21 





Cover- 
End cut away 




Candy or 
note paper box 




One end of box fitted in 
and cut of fas in dresser 




I 



lop and leQs cut - Extra piece projecti n 9 
Drawer front fastened for writino shelf- other 

end of box fitted in for 
shelves as in booh case 



Details of Writing Desk. 

FROM "WHEN MOTHER UTS US MAKE PAPER BOX FURNITURE." 

BYG. ELLINGWOOO RICH, COURTESY OF MOFFAT, YARD AND COMPANY 

22 





Two boxes- same size- nearly square 
Extra piece of cardboard for bacK 

br§e chair=collar boxes - Small chair^ewelry boxes 




Invert box for seat Portions of cover ed^es 
Fasten covers for sides, cutaway to form arms. 




Shape the le^s Fasten back to seat 
Cut. slats in arms fiochneat skewer or hair pin 



Details of Morris Chair. 

FROM "WHEN MOTHER LETS US MAKE PAPER BOX FURNITURE," 

BY G. ELLINGWOOD RICH, COURTESY OF MOFFAT, YARD AND COMPANY 

23 



raffia with this crossing of the arms forms the thickness of the body. Tie at 
the waist \ x /l in - below neck. Give a sash of colored raffia. For the boy 
doll, separate strands for legs and tie with raffia for ankle line. 

Doll's Hat: (Model 2.) Wind together at one end nine uneven strands 
of raffia, fasten the tied end to a firm surface, and make a three-strand braid, 
adding a new strand of raffia from time to time, braiding it in with the 
original strand for an inch as it is needed, and letting the ragged ends hang 
out until the braid is complete. When it is long enough wind the end firmly 
and trim off all ends. Coil the braid into a small mat and sew the coils 
together row by row shaping gradually into a hat. 

Knotted Horse Reins: This interests small boys. Materials: 16 full- 
length strands of raffia, 3 sleigh bells, and two i-in. brass rings. Breast- 
Piece, 10 in. finished: Cut 6 strips of raffia each 13^ in. long. Slip a 
sleigh bell over 2 of the strands to the center and knot the full bunch 1 in. 
from it on each side. Slip a sleigh bell over the other 2 strands, one on 
each side, and inclose each with a knot 2 in. from the first. Knot each end 
to a ring. Head Piece 12 in. finished: Cut 6 strands of raffia i^Vi m - 
long and knot the same as the breastpiece but omit the bells. Tie the ends 
to the rings. Pair of Reins 24 in. finished. Knot 6 strands as before and 
tie the ends to rings. When raffia is too short tie in new ends at knots. 

Knotted Bag: (Model 3.) This cover for a tumbler, flower holder, 
fish globe, etc., may be decorated with a bead above each knot. If simply 
knotted and lined, a workbag is the result. This bag lends itself to a variety 
of knots from the most simple to the most complex. Use simplest knotting 
with younger children. Many beautiful designs may be worked out. For 
the more elaborate baskets and bags the children should first decide upon 
the use of the finished article, next upon the knots to be used, and finally 
upon the design. Raffia of various colors may be used or colored beads may 
be introduced. 

Materials : 8 strands of raffia and one 1 Y2 in. brass ring. Double each 
strand and fasten over ring with a slip knot. This is the bottom of the bag. 
Make a single knot with the same pair of strands 1 in. from its own slip 
knot. Keep the knots uniform in size. 2d row: Knot a strand from one 
pair with a strand from the next pair 1 in. below the previous row. Make a 
third row 1 in. below second, splitting the pairs. Above each slip knot slip a 
colored bead and make a knot above the bead. Separate the strands and 
make one row of knots. One in. above, knot the strands without separating. 
Four in. above, knot all the strands together. 

Knotted Bag: Cut a piece of cardboard the width of the bag to be 
made and 1 in. longer. One inch from one end put a notch at each side. 
Tic a cord firmly around the cardboard at this part. Knot the strands over 
this cord the same as over the brass ring in the preceding model. Follow 
the directions for knotted bag given above. When the required length is 
reached, knot the back and front strands together and cut the ends off 
evenly for fringe. 

Whisk Broom: (Model 4.) The handle may be made of braided loops 
or be simply wound. Double a bunch of raffia 16 in. long. Tie in center 

24 





m 



ZSfSk 



^ifk~ 



MODEL 2 



4 % 




m. ~ •-- 




MODEL! 




J 



with colored cord forming a loop that will serve as hanger when broom is 
complete. Divide entire bunch into thirds and braid for 2 in. Tie with 
colored raffia. One in. below flatten to required width and stitch across in 
and out to make the brush firm and shapely. Cut even at bottom. 

Whisk Broom : Wind a ring made of raffia or brass with raffia until it is 
covered. This ring which forms a handle should be 1 to 2 in. diameter 
according to size of broom. Loop a bunch of raffia 16 in. long through the 
ring and tie securely below. 

Belt: This may be made of narrow braids joined with fancy stitches, 
or of one wide braid of several strands. Buttonhole a Y2 m - brass ring with 
colored .raffia. Loop two full-length strands of natural raffia over this ring in 
uneven lengths so that joinings of new pieces will not come together. 
Divide these strands into three even parts and braid 12 in. This makes a 
miniature model. It can be used with, a small ring as belt for large raffia 
doll. Repeat this looping and braiding twice. Join the three braids with 
a catch stitch, feather stitch, or other fancy stitch of raffia to match the 
ring. To finish belt, divide the three braids into two parts with the colored 
raffia used in stitching the braids together. Braid these parts for 4 in. Tie 
securely with colored raffia I in. from end which forms fringe. A full-sized 
belt in harmonious colors may be made to match the pocket described later. 

B. RAFFIA OVER CARDBOARD 

(Model 5.) Book Mark for Magazines: This simple model introduces 
the child to fundamental ways of handling raffia. It is a good model for 
the opening day of school as it is small and can be finished quickly. It is 
excellent for teaching knotting and simple wrapping. Raffia must always 
be put on flat, each wrapping lapping a little the previous layer. Knots 
should all be made on the same side of the cardboard. A longer and wider 
piece of cardboard forms the base of a napkin ring. Use a piece of white 
cardboard 1 by 5 in. with 3 circular holes }/i in. from each end. Cover with 
plain winding, using natural raffia. For the older children a color may be 
introduced as a border. Wind % in. natural and then }/i in. color at each 
end before putting in the center. At the first and last end the strands 
should pass through one of the holes and be incorporated with the fringe. 

Fringe: Form a slip knot. through the hole. Fold raffia in half, slip 
fold up through hole. Thread two ends through loop. Pull down gently 
to end of cardboard. Finish fringe on one side. 

Napkin Ring: This may be wound simply or it may be buttonholed on 
each edge. Buttonholing is done with two strands, one at each side, used 
alternately. For variation, use two colors. To join strands thread the new 
end through a loop of the buttonhole stitch with the old strand, and tuck 
ends under windings. This model on larger scale forms sides of work-box 
model. (Model 7.) The napkin ring may be decorated with colored raffia 
run through the center or with cross stitch or other design. Mailing tubes 
cut in sections 1% in. long make a good foundation. Heavy cardboard 
1% by 7?4 in. can be used — the kind that bends without breaking. On 



each end Y 2 in - from ed S e P uncn tnree noles - Bring one end over the other 
and sew the two ends together through the holes, using a full-length 
strand of raffia that will begin the winding. For simple winding proceed as 

for Model 5. 

(Model 6.) Whisk-Broom Holder: One large and two small circular 
or oval cardboard foundations. The small pieces should each be K in. 
broader than the radius of the large piece. Cut out the centers of all leaving 
1 in. frames. Wind all the pieces like the napkin ring and join, sewing smaller 
frames together first and then their outer edges to sides of large frame. 
Make narrow braided raffia loop for hanging. The centers of the smaller 
pieces may be filled in with spider-web weaving. 

This model serves as a basis for other models. The large circle makes a 
picture frame or the top and bottom of a work box (Model 7). 

Blotter: Use small frame of Model 6. This frame may be wound or 
buttonholed. By combining two buttonholed frames with Model 7 a 
string box is made. The larger the opening in the foundation the more 
easily the child will work. Always keep the raffia flat. Fill in center hole 
with spider web. Secure to it a holder formed by buttonholing a brass ring. 
Paste circular piece of blotting paper underneath. To make a penwiper, 
use chamois or felt instead of blotting paper. To make a needle-book, hinge 
the two pieces together with a few stitches and insert flannel leaves. 

(Model 7.) Work-Box: This model, using larger dimensions, serves 
as review of the napkin ring and whisk-broom holder. Use foundations as 
described under these models — two frames for top and bottom and one 
cylinder, fitting these pieces for sides of box. A useful size is 5 in. diameter 
by 2 in. high. Larger frames make collar boxes; higher cylinders, cuff boxes. 
The open centers of top and bottom may be filled with plain or fancy 
weaving described later under "Section Weaving." Buttonhole outside 
edges of frames and both edges of cylinder. Sew bottom to cylinder and 
fasten top H in. only for hinge. Sew a colored bead on cylinder for button 
and a buttonholed strand of raffia to cover for loop. The designs for centers 
of top and bottom must be finished before the box is put together. 



26 




MODEL 5 



fi 
UN 





MODEL 3 





>*iS \jt-r>i*>3&' 



1^^'' 



MODEL? 




<$1 



MODEL4 



89 

MODEL 6 




Cretonne Covered Work Box Fitted for Prize 



CHAPTER IV 

SEWING 

Small children — up to nine and ten — should use big implements. Eyes, 
muscles, and nerves at this age are undeveloped, and fine work brings a strain 
which some children may stand without injury but which may do real harm 
to others. In sewing, big needles — not finer than No. 6 — coarse thread, and 
coarse materials such as Java canvas, small checked ginghams, crash, 
kitchen toweling, and burlap are the best. Java canvas is best of all for little 
children because it is firm and its coarse threads and well-marked spacings 
furnish lines for the child's needle to follow. Handkerchief cases, envelopes 
for postal cards, letters, and work, and covers for needlebooks may be made 
from it. But Java canvas is not cheap, although its width makes the 
75 cents a yard, which it costs, less expensive than at first appears. It is 
best run with colored wools in simple stitches put on in rows that give a 
fanciful effect pleasing to the child. Burlap is not liked by sewing teachers 
and it is not used by them unless its small cost makes it necessary. It is 
loose and pulls out of shape and at best it is ugly in any article that the child 
can make. Small checked ginghams are excellent because the checks make 
guides for the needle. Light colored materials are better for the little 
child's eyes than dark ones but if dark ones must be used, it is a good idea 
to put a light mark with tailors' chalk along the seam to be sewed. This 
shows the stitches so that the child can see them readily. Stitches of even 
size are more important for the small child than fine ones. Let the small 
girl back stitch her bag of coarse material and be sure that it is strong and 

27 



will not rip apart. Pull the seam open for the child to see for herself occa- 
sionally whether the sewing is sufficiently close. It is not uncommon to find 
little children who use the needle with remarkable skill but physiologists 
tell us that unstrung adult nerves and eyes have often resulted from the 
encouragement of such early strain. 

GENERAL DIRECTIONS 

(i) Before distributing work see that the children's hands are clean. 
Do not accept soiled work. Seats should be so low that both feet of every 
little girl are on the floor and her lap level. The light should fall over the 
left shoulder, never in the face. 

(2) Every girl in the class should have her own workbag with her name 
card securely attached to it. These bags should be the first work accom- 
plished by the class. 

(3) A sewing apron should be made next and this when finished should 
be worn at every session. An ideal workbag for a child would contain 1 
spool each of Nos. 50 and 70 unglazed white thread ; 1 paper each of between 
needles Nos. 7, 8, and mixed 5 to 10; I pair of 6 inch scissors; wax, emery, 
thimble, short lead pencil, and tape measure. Besides these, she should have 
a needle-book, pins, and pin cushion. The child can make the needle-book 
and pin cushion. A work box too should be part of the course and, as an 
inducement to neatness and diligence, the best work box made in each 
school during the season, if it is up to the standard, should be fitted for the 
child at the end of the term. 

Overcome the children's usual dislike to thimbles. They must be worn 
during each lesson but be sure that they are fitted carefully to the fingers 
that are to wear them. 

Do not permit the children to bite thread or to moisten it in the mouth. 
Both are unclean habits. Biting thread injures the teeth. 

A knot on the thread is necessary in basting and gathering but it should 
not be used elsewhere unless it can be concealed. In seaming of any kind 
instead of making a knot begin by sewing two or three stitches towards the 
ri^ht and then proceed towards the left over them. In hemming, slip the 
end of the thread under the hem and sew it in. In finishing, sew back two or 
three stitches to secure the end of the thread. Cut the thread, never break 
it. 

In cutting materials, it is necessary to know which is the warp and which 
the woof. The warp threads are the lengthwise ones ; the woof, the crosswise. 
The vertical straight lines of a pattern must follow the warp. These straight 
lines are always indicated on a perforated pattern. Cut the cloth smoothly 
and evenly without jagged edges. 

In tearing, first snip with the scissors and then pull one piece towards 
you and the other away from you. If the hands pull from center to sides 
there is danger of a crosswise tear. 

The child new to sewing cannot baste her own work. This must be 
done for her, and it is imperative that it be well done. A teacher's careless 

28 



preparation leads to a child's careless sewing. In every department of the 
Daily Vacation Bible Schools an uplifting influence upon the child's charac- 
ter is the aim. Negligence induces negligence. Accuracy on the teacher's 
part will bring accuracy from the child who responds unconsciously to the 
teacher's attitude. 

Stitches to be taught: Running, Gathering, Basting, Stitching, Back- 
stitching, Combination-stitching, French-seaming, Overcasting, Over- 
handing or Top-sewing, Hemming, Felling, and Damask-hemming or 
Napery-stitching. 

Running: In running, the stitches and spaces must be of equal length. 
The length of the stitch depends upon the fabric and upon the kind of article 
being made. For very fine running, as few as two threads of the fabric 
may be taken up although it is not necessary to count the threads because 
one's eye soon becomes trained to judge the correct length. The thumb and 
first finger of the left hand should hold the work while the right hand plies 
the needle. The thimble presses against the needle, pushing it through the 
cloth. 

Gathering: Gathering is plain running stitch done with a double fine 
thread upon which the fabric is drawn up. Divide the fabric to be gathered 
into quarters marking each quarter with a notch. If a skirt or other large 
garment is being made, use separate threads for each division. If the piece 
is small one gathering thread will serve. Make two parallel rows, the first 
one quarter inch from the edge of the fabric and the second, one quarter 
inch below it. To crease the gathers, draw the threads of both rows at 
one end, pushing the gathers into a close group at the other end, being 
careful to keep the lines of the ■ material straight between the gather- 
ing threads. While the gathers are in a close group with the threads of the 
goods straight between the two rows of gathering, press them flat with the 
finger and thumb. This creases them as effectually as the more laborious 
stroking. Divide the band or other piece to which the gathers are to be 
sewed into quarters and catch together corresponding quarters of this 
and the gathered piece. Draw up both threads and distribute the gathers 
evenly. 

Basting : The purpose of basting is to hold pieces of material together 
temporarily. Be sure that the pieces to be basted are correctly placed. In 
work prepared for inexperienced sewers, basting stitches should not exceed 
half an inch in length. This basting thread should serve also for a guide 
to the line of sewing. It is drawn out when the sewing is finished. 

Stitching: On the right side this stitch looks like machine sewing. The 
stitches should be Vq in. long on the upper side and % in. long on the under 
side. Draw the thread up through the work. 
Put the needle backward to the right yg- in. 
and do vn and forward }i in.; for the second 
stitch, back on the right side to the end of 

the first stitch and down and forward } § ' m - Stitching is used where firm 
joining of fabrics is needed. 

Backstitching: Backstitching and stitching are alike except that in 

29 




backstitching there is a short space between the stitches on the right 
side, and on the under side the stitch is three times the length of the upper 
stitch. 

Combination-Stitching: This is a combination of backstitching and 
running. Use two running stitches and one backstitch. This stitch is used 
for seams, especially those to be felled. 

French Seaming: This was known by our grandmothers as ''bag 
seaming." It is a double seam. Join the pieces with a running stitch */§ 
inch from the edge on the right side of the work. Trim off the edge of this 
seam close to the sewing. Turn the work the other side out and make 
another seam that is deep enough to hide the edges of the seam made on the 
right side. Use either stitching or combination stitching. The narrower the 
second seam the more beautiful the work. The French seam is used on 
undergarments. 

Overhanding and Overcasting: These stitches are both done over the 
edge of the goods. Overhanding, sometimes called "top sewing," is used 

for joining two selvages or two folded edges. 
Overcasting is used for covering the raw edges 
of seams to prevent fraying. In overhanding, 
the stitches are slightly slanted as they take up 
the upper two threads of the two edges. To 
make a flat seam after sewing in this way, open 
the joining and press flat by drawing the 
thumb nail backward over the stitching. In 
overcasting, trim the frayed edges and slant 
the stitches, taking them from )/g to }<± inch 
apart over the edges. In overcasting the 
stitches go deeper into the fabric than in over- 
handing — about ys inch from the edge and the 
same distance apart. 

Hemming: A hem is a finish for the bottom, top, or side of a piece of 
work. Turn the fabric down % in. Then turn it a second time the width 

of the hem desired, using a gauge to keep the 
hem even in width. These steps may be prac- 
ticed by the child on paper before beginning 
the actual work. In hemming, take slanting 
stitches ys m - l° n g> putting the needle through 
the single material just below the hem and 
slanting it upward through the fold, binding 
the edge. It is very important that the 
stitches on right and wrong sides and the 
spaces between them should be even and that 
the stitches slant uniformly. 
The corner of a hem may be finished square or be mitred. (See illus- 
tration of hem.) In a square corner, the hem goes straight across from 
edge to edge of the piece and the open ends are overhanded. To mitre a 
corner, turn the hem the same as for a square corner, fold the open end 

30 





is: 



— p.\\\ 

L 




under to form a perfect bias edge, crease this folded edge, cut out all 

unnecessary fabric underneath it, fold back, make edges and corners 

meet and hem down the mitred edge with fine 

stitches that do not prick through the right 

side. The square corner is used on narrow 

hems; the mitred corner, where two hems meet, 

especially if the hem is more than Y2 in. wide. 

(Drawing of square and mitred corner.) It is 

more important that a young child make her stitches slant uniformly than 

that the stitches be small. 

Felling: Felling is used in place of a French seam where a flat seam 
is desirable, principally in undergarments. Baste the two pieces of the 
material together, the edge of the under one 
projecting 34 in. beyond the top piece. Sew 
with the combination stitch Y% m - from the 
edge of the top piece. Fold over one half the 
width of the projecting edge as for the first 
fold of a hem. Open the seam from the other 
side of the work and turn the fold flat over 
making a narrow hem. Hem down as in hem- 
ming. If the seam is bias, to prevent fraying, 
sew in the direction that the threads run, not against them. 

Damask or Napery Stitch : Turn and (for the children) baste a hem as 
for hemming — for a napkin, }/$ in. wide; for a tablecloth, % in. Bend this 
hem directly back so that the fold of the hem and the fold of the cloth below 
it form an edge and overhand with very fine stitches holding the hem to- 
wards you. Fine thread, No. 100 for fine damask, sinks into the fabric 
better than coarser thread. 

Darning Stitch: Darning is practically weaving. Do not cut off the 
ravelled threads of the worn place but, holding the worn spot over a firm 
surface without stretching, stroke them into their natural direction. Begin 
at one side of the worn spot half an inch from the hole or farther if the fabric 
is threadbare beyond this point. Now, with a soft untwisted or loosely 
twisted thread corresponding in weight and kind with the fabric, run back 
and forth with fine stitches in the direction of the warp and in closely placed 
rows. These stitches should extend an equal distance on all sides of the 
hole. Cross these warp threads at right angles going over and under 
them alternately changing the order at each succeeding row so that the 
warp threads that were under become the upper threads and extending the 
woof stitches also beyond the hole. In darning fabrics with silk or wool, 
the thread will sink into the material more effectually if it is split, unless an 
untwisted thread can be found. In mending dresses it is often possible to 
use a ravelling of the material or even a hair from one's head. If a hair is 
used thread the root end into the needle. In mending a thick wool garment 
such as a coat, a darn can sometimes be concealed by first filling the hole 
with lint scraped from under the collar or other concealed place and then 
darning through it with untwisted silk. 

31 









Buttonhole Stitch: Cut the buttonhole straight with the thread of the 
material and large enough to admit the button easily. For heavy material 

use No. 36 or 40 thread waxing it slightly to 
make it smooth. To make strong buttonholes 
such as are used in children's clothes, both 
strand and overcast them before working. In 
fine work stranding alone is sufficient. To 
strand a buttonhole go around the buttonhole 
twice, taking a stitch at each end each time and 
letting the threads lie one over the other along the full length of the 
buttonhole. To overcast it, begin at the back of the buttonhole and 
work to the left around the edges putting three or four stitches on each 
side, each stitch ^ in. in depth. If the buttonhole is to be both 
stranded and overcast, strand it first. In working it, hold the button- 
hole lengthwise over the forefinger of the left hand, begin at the back of 
the buttonhole, bring the needle half way back through the material ^ in. 
from the corner, pass the double end of the thread around the point of the 
needle from right to left and draw the needle through the loop. Draw the 
thread up with a little jerk to make a tight purl on the edge. There is an 
old rule that four stitches finish the end of a buttonhole — one at each corner 
and two between, but more stitches than this are sometimes needed. For 
a heavy outer garment, a bar at the back gives a desirable finish and adds 
to the strength. After the buttonhole is worked, make two stitches one 
over the other across each end of the buttonhole and -^ in. from the 
end. Buttonhole over these threads from one end to the other turning 
the purl edge away from the buttonhole. A tailor's buttonhole is slightly 
rounded out with the scissors at the front end and is worked there 
with very closely placed stitches. A buttonhole is slightly smaller after 
working. 

Buttonholed Loops: These are used for hooks in place of metal eyes 
and with buttons in place of buttonholes. They may be made directly on 
the fabric or on its edge. Decide upon the length of the loop necessary for 
the hook or button and on its place oh the garment. Fasten the thread 
securely at one end of this position and take three or four stitches, one 
over the other, to the other end, leaving the threads loose for the hook 
or button. Buttonhole over these stitches from one end to the other and 
fasten securely at each end of the loop. 

Eyelets: An eyelet is a hole pierced through the fabric and usually 
overhanded with close, fine, shallow stitches. It is sometimes buttonholed. 
For added strength, the hole that is overcast is sometimes 
outlined first with running stitches. In buttonholing, the 
eyelet is most sightly when the purl is turned away from 
the hole. The gauged stiletto will insure eyelets of uniform 
size. To finish an overcast eyelet perfectly, leave the last 
three stitches loose, run the needle back under them, draw 
down the stitches tight and cut off the thread close. For 
very large eyelets it may be necessary to cut away some of the material 

32 





VV> . \ . i . y , xv . \ . \ . -» . y . \ , V 



before working. Eyelets are used for running tapes and ribbons, or for 
studs or buttons that are put on with split rings on the under side. They 
are also used in embroidery. 

Patching : Darning and Patching are the two chief processes of mending. 
Darning has already been described. Neither a darn nor a patch is complete 
until it has been carefully pressed on the wrong 
side. There are several ways of patching, the 
method depending upon the material being 
mended, the shape and size of the worn place, 
and the strain that it is to have. If possible, 
use a piece of the old material for the patch 
or, if that is not possible, a piece of material 
that is lighter in weight than the original fabric. 
A patch that is heavier than the cloth upon 
which it is applied will tear the cloth.' If the 
article to be patched has been washed, wash 
any new cloth before using it for a patch upon it. If the material to be 
patched has faded, fade the piece that is to be applied in the sun or in 

Javelle water. Some careful persons always 
save pieces of colored wash dresses and have 
them washed with the dress whenever it is 
laundered. In mending very fine material like 
fine cambric, lawn, or organdy, a piece of wash 
net is the best patch because it is inconspicuous 
but it must be darned in. Tape of various 
widths is a convenience for the workbasket. 
With its two selvages it makes an excellent 
patch for a straight tear. In mending woven 
underwear use a patch from an old garment of 
the same kind or from a balbriggan stocking. It sometimes pays to buy a 
cheap pair of stockings for this purpose. It is important that the patch 
always run the way of the goods and the way of the nap. In apply ing a patch 
to figured goods match the figures. 

There are several ways of applying patches — hemming, darning, and 
overhanding. Hemming is the simplest. First measure the size not only of 
the actual hole but also of the worn material around it. Cut the patch the 
shape of the space measured and i^ m - larger all around. Turn in the edges 
of the patch over the right side 34 in. deep all around. Trim the edges of 
the hole and make it a symmetrical shape — square, oblong, oval, or round. 
Oval and round patches are not very desirable. Baste the patch right side 
up on the under side of the piece being mended, covering not only the hole 
but the threadbare material around it. Hem down the outside and inside 
edges of the patch with very fine stitches using a fine needle and fine thread. 
Number ioo is not too fine for most patches. If the patch is to be darned 
on the mended piece, do not turn in the edges of the patch or hole but darn 
them down, catching in all ravellings. Number 200 thread is not too fine 
for beautiful work on cotton cloth of average weight. Never use coarser 

33 




than ioo for this purpose. There is still another way to apply a patch. 
When it is desirable to have it invisible, overcast it on. Cut out the thread- 
bare material all around the hole in oblong or square shape. A square is 
simpler. First indicate the center of both hole and patch by creases or 
basted lines in such a way that the center of the hole and of the patch will 
be known by the crossing of the lines. Make a diagonal snip at each corner 
of the opening. Turn back the four sides on the wrong side and baste with 
fine thread. Cut the patch 14 in. larger than the hole is now. Turn down 
the edges of the patch Y± in. all around. Insert the patch from the right 
side and catch the corners of it to the corners of the opening. If the space 
is large catch the edge of patch and opening together temporarily along the 
sides. Then overhand the two together on the wrong side with very fine 
needle and thread and tiny closely placed stitches. Overcast the raw edges 
of the wrong side with fine stitches. 

Damask Patch : Still another patch is called the damask patch and is 
used for table linen and other fabrics where both right and wrong sides must 
show. Cut the hole square. Cut the patch the exact size of the hole. Baste 
the piece to be patched on a firm paper keeping all the sides of the hole 
perfectly straight. Insert the patch inside the hole and baste it there 
crosswise and lengthwise through the middle with very fine thread. Darn 
the edges together, running the stitches deep enough into the cloth on both 
sides to prevent raveling. Change the order at each turn so that first the 
edge of the goods, and then the edge of the patch is covered. This work 
must be done in tiny, very closely placed stitches with very fine needle and 
thread. 

Sewing on Tapes: A flat tape loop is more easily picked up than a 
standing loop. Cut the tape the required length (2 in.), turn down the ends 
x /i i n -> and overcast to the piece wanting it with the upper side of the tape on 
a line with the top edge of the piece the turned down ends next the material. 
To conceal these ends make a line of stitching across the tape % in. from the 
overcasting. For a standing loop, cut a three-inch strip of tape. Fold it in 
the middle and spread the ends apart so that the inside edges will meet 
each other at the ends. Turn up the ends 34 in. and overcast to the piece ^ 
in. below the edge. Make a line of stitching 34 in. above the overcasting 
to hide the turned down ends. For tying strings, cut the tapes the required 
length, hem both ends of each piece, and overhand a piece to each side of 
the garment. 

Sewing on Buttons: The buttonholes are made first. Lap the button- 
hole side over the button side, and pin the two together catching top and 
bottom edges even. To mark the places for the buttons, run a pin down 
through the outer end of each buttonhole and through the material under it. 
This leaves a pin where each button is to be sewed. For buttons with holes, 
make a knot in a long doubled thread and run the needle downward from 
the right side so that the knot will be under the button. Bring the thread 
up through one of the eyes of the button, lay a pin across the top of the 
button (this is done to keep the stitches loose), put the needle down through 
the eye opposite to the one through which it came up and draw the thread 

34 




down over the pin. Repeat, using opposite holes until the button is firm — 
about five such stitches through each two eyes. Bring up the thread under- 
neath the button, remove the pin, and wind the thread four or five times 
around the threads there. Fasten off the thread under the button and cut 
it off. 

Hooks and Eyes: Sew hooks and eyes upon a double thickness of cloth 
or upon a fly so that the stitches will not show on the right side. Hooks are 
sewed on the under side of the right-hand lap ; eyes, on the upper side or on 
the under side of the double edge of the left-hand hem or facing. In sewing 
on hooks, overhand through the eyes and cloth 
until they are firm and finish by putting several 
stitches across the upper part of the hook under 
the bend or hump. Eyes or peets are over- 
handed on through the circles. 

Cutting Biases : A true bias is the line be- 
tween two opposite corners of a square. The 
edge of a bias must run diagonally across the 
warp and woof. A bias is used where elasticity 
is needed, especially in the binding of curved 
edges. Bias bands are used for trimmings. 

Gussets : A gusset is used where a seam is opened or a slash is made for 
a placket hole as in a petticoat, drawers, etc. Cut a i}/£ in. square of the 
same material as the garment, turn the edges down all around \i in., and 
lay two opposite corners together. Catch the double point opposite the 
long side to the bottom of the slit and overhand the straight sides to the 
hemmed edges of the slit. 

Fancy Stitches: Hemstitching. Hemstitching is done with ordinary 
sewing cotton. Determine the width needed for the hem and draw a thread 

along each side of the goods to indicate the line 
>w | till I II llliliiii I'll along which the sewing would naturally be done. 

^V lm flOwlnfr 7? ^^ e num ber of threads drawn depends upon the 
1 s ''" ' ' l " texture of the material and also upon the width 

of the hem and the purpose of the finished piece. 
A handkerchief will need fewer threads than a 
towel. Unless there is to be a double row of 
hemstitching, one at each edge of the drawn threads, care must be taken 
not to draw too many or the one at the upper unsewn edge will loosen when 
the piece is washed. Hemstitching is the basis of drawn work. Turn the 
hem as in hemming with the edge along the first drawn thread and baste 
closely with fine thread. Before taking each stitch, the needle passes under 
a group of threads — from three to five — and a hemming stitch is taken, the 
work being done on the wrong side. Pass the needle and thread under a 
group of threads — from three to five — then throw the thread back over the 
same group and take a hemming stitch up through the hem. Draw the 
threads down with a little jerk to make a tight purl. In hemstitching on 
heavy fabrics, catch the fold of the hem with a thread on the right side of 
the goods. 

35 





Catch Stitch: This is vised on the wrong side of an open seam to hold 
the edges flat. The work is done from right to left with short running 
stitches taken alternately from side to side of the seam and in such a 
manner that a series of open V's is made on the sewing side and two paral- 
lel lines of running stitches on the right side of the work. The running 
stitches should be % in. apart. 

Herring-bone Stitch: On one side, this is the same as catch stitching, 
but worked from left to right the threads cross 
on the sewing side and form a series of X's. 
It is used for the same purpose as catch stitch- 
ing to finish hems and also as an ornament on 
the right side of the work. 

Chain Stitch: Hold the work over the 
forefinger of the left hand, right 

side up. Bring the thread up and forward and hold it 
with the thumb. Put the needle back through the hole 
that it came up, take a short running stitch towards 
you, and draw the thread tight making a loop. 

Feather Stitch: This is a variation of the chain 
stitch, the stitches being taken alternately to the right 
and left of the thread that is held by the thumb, in- 
stead of back into the hole that it came through. This 
stitch is used for ornamental finishes. 
Blanket Stitch : This is a chain stitch which is worked from left to right 
over an edge instead of lengthwise along a 
fabric. Hold the material with the edge to- 
wards you over the forefinger of the left hand. 
Hold the thread with the thumb as in a 
chain stitch, but with each stitch put the 
needle Y% m - or l ess to the right, drawing 
the thread over the edge. This is used to 
prevent the fraying of raw edges. 

Cross Stitch: This is an ornamental stitch 









LLJ-.-j used in single rows but oftener to fill a de- 
sign or fill the ground work of a pattern. 



l. .U.l'J When worked on close material such as linen, 
Penelope canvas is usually basted over the 
place to be embroidered and the work is done on rTTT*:"r*i"? 
this in order to have stitches even. When it is f""!*'j*"t:i"H"1 
finished, the threads of the canvas are drawn out. :..i. .?\|>rI. J...' 

Star Stitch: This is an elaboration of cross stitch. H"j/?IKj*" , H 
It is usually done on an open canvas such as Penelope ^j|Hr «T"("j 
or Java. lXIXXj..TJ 

THINGS TO BE MADE 

With each model refer to descriptions of stitches and for general direc- 
tions. 

36 



Sewing Bag: This model teaches running, overcasting, and hemming. 
Materials: Checked gingham, burlap, coarse crash, etc., for the smaller 
girls; chintz, cretonne, etc. for the older girls. Tear off all selvages to 
avoid uneven shrinking. Cut the bags in about the proportion of 16 by 6 in., 
planning materials of the various widths so that there shall be no waste. 
Double the fabric crosswise and baste the sides together 3^2 in. from the 
edge leaving them open 1 Y2 in. from the top. Run the seams 34 in. from the 
edge or, if the older girls have already learned to sew, for greater strength, 
use the more difficult combination stitch or French seam. Overcast the 
raw edges closely. Open the seam at each side and make a narrow hem at 
each of the four open top edges. Make a }/2 in. hem across the two open 
tops with a 14, in. turnover. Cut 2 pieces of tape each 1 in. longer than the 
distance around the top. Run both tapes through the hems of both sides 
and lap their ends neatly. Draw up the tapes from opposite sides of the bag. 
Experienced sewers may make the hem wider and make a row of running 
stitches %> m - above the hem to hold the draw strings. This leaves a little 
frill at the top. 

Apron: This model teaches hemming, gathering, and putting band 
on gathers. Materials: Checked gingham, crossbar lawn, etc. Cut 
the apron in the proportion of 16 in. by about 12 in. long. Let the 
children help in the measuring and planning for each other. Proportion 
the hem to the size of the apron. Turn 3^ in. hems at the sides and from 1 
to 2 in. at the bottom. Notch the center of the apron and gather twice 
across the top, the first row 34 i n - from the edge and the second 3^2 in- 
below that. For the band cut a Y2 in. strip lengthwise of the material. It 
should be 3 in. larger than the waist of the child. Turn over 3<t in. on each 
side and 1 in. from each end. Mark center of belt and catch it to the center 
of the apron on the right side. Fasten the belt around the waist of the child 
and tack the band to each edge of the apron, drawing up the gathers and 
adjusting the fullness to fit the child. Put a pin at each side of the gath- 
ers and wind the gathering threads around the pin to prevent them 
from slipping. The apron now lies flat on the band. Baste the belt and 
apron together and sew with combination stitch. Hem down the band 
on the wrong side, being careful to have centers opposite each other. 
Overcast open edges and ends of band together. Fasten with button and 
buttonhole. 

Sweeping Outfit: Apron with Strapped Bib and Pocket, Dusting Cap, 
and Half Sleeves. This is a model for girls of 12 or over. The measurements 
given are 12-year size. Materials: Gingham, percale, crossbar lawn, 
etc. 

Skirt: Cut 23 in. long by 24 in. wide. This allows for 3 in. hem at the 
bottom and Y% in. hems at the sides. 

Bib: Cut 10 in. deep by 7 wide. This allows for \Yi in. hem at 
top. 

Pocket: Cut 8 in. long by 7 wide. This allows for 1 in. hem at 
top. 

Belt: Cut two 2 34 in. strips 3 in. longer than the child's waist measure. 

37 



Straps: Cut two 4 in. strips long enough to go over the shoulder and 
join to belt at front and back. They may go straight or cross; if the latter, 
they will need to be a little longer. 

Make the skirt of the apron and gather and baste to one strip of 
the belt. Hem the pocket at top, make a narrow turn at each side and 
the bottom and baste on right side of the skirt midway between bottom 
and top. Hem it down around the three sides fastening the top corners 
securely. Turn over }i'm. on each side of the two straps and turn in one 
end of each. Fold each strap through the center lengthwise and at the 
unfinished end of each insert the side of the bib running the strap to the bib 
on the right side and hemming it down on the wrong side. Overhand the 
sides and ends of each strap. Join the center of the bib to the center of the 
belt attached to the skirt and baste the bib to the belt. Make 34 in. turn 
all around on the two belt strips. Use second strip for a belt facing, hem- 
ming it firmly across skirt and bib and overhanding the rest. Fasten with 
button and buttonhole. Put a button on the end of each strap and a vertical 
buttonhole in the belt where the strap will meet it. 

Dusting Cap: Material same as apron. Cut a round piece 20 in. 
diameter and make 34 ' m - hem taking pains not to stretch the curved edge. 
Baste a strip of 3'2 m - tape 1% in. from the edge all around for a drawstring 
casing — a narrow opening should be left between the two ends to admit of 
the strings for tying. Run this tape on with close stitches. Thread the 
casing with bobbin or very narrow tape. 

Half Sleeves: Same material as apron and cap. Dimensions for 
paper pattern: Distance between wrist and elbow plus % in. hem at top 
and 1 in. hem at wrist. Width at top size of arm just below elbow puis ^4 
to 1 in. for French seam. Width at wrist size around closed hand plus 
seams. Sew up with French seam and hem at bottom and top. Make a 
slit on the right side of each hem and buttonhole them and run in bobbin or 
narrow tape drawstrings. 

Dusting Cloth: This teaches running, hemming or catch stitching. 
Material : cheesecloth. Cut square with width of cloth. Turn }. 2 in. hem on 
3 sides. Fold first turn all around and then the second and baste. 



38 








CHAPTER V 
CROCHETING 

Crocheting is a kind of lace work made with a hook and with thread, 
cord, or yarn which may be cotton, wool, or silk. Crocheting is in reality a 
series of loops used in various combinations to produce different patterns. 
The size of hook and thread must always agree. Leaflets and pamphlets 
with pictures and directions for making all kinds of models are abundant 
at the smallest prices in the shops. Crochet hooks may be of steel, bone, 
celluloid, ivory, or pearl. Steel is oftenest used for thread; and bone, for 
cord and yarn. 

A beginner in crocheting, should learn, before trying to copy a model, to 
handle the hook and to make the various simple stitches, beginning with the 
chain. After learning to handle the hook and to manage it easily, the work 
is simple. Hold the hook, hook part always downward, as you would a pen 
or pencil. The left hand holds the thread. This must be done in a certain 
way to keep the tension even. Wind the thread once around the base of the 
little finger, under the third and second fingers, between the second and 
first and over the first joint of the first. Pick up the thread with the hook 
from this first joint of the forefinger, at every stitch. 

The chain is the foundation of all crocheting. (Model I.) Knot a loop 
near the end of the thread. Put the hook through the loop and draw a loop 
of the long end of the thread back through the first loop. 

Single or Slip Stitch: (Model 2.) Make a chain of the needed length 
according to directions. Turn the work and draw a loop of the thread 
through the first loop of the chain and also through the stitch on the needle. 

Double Crochet: (Model 3.) This is the same as a slip stitch except 
that the thread is first drawn up through the stitch of the chain and then 
the thread is put over the needle and drawn through the two stitches on the 
needle. 

39 



Treble Crochet: (Model 4.) For the first stitch, chain two before putting 
the thread over the needle, down into the stitch below, and drawing a loop 
back There will be three stitches on the needle. Draw the hook through 
two of them, then through the other three. In the directions, single or slip 
stitch is indicated by " slst" ; double crochet by " dc " ; treble crochet by " tr." 

To fasten the thread after it is cut off at the end of the work, draw the 
end through the loop remaining on the needle and pull down tight. Then 
thread the thread into a needle and sew it down with little invisible stitches 
and cut short. 

For a doll's set comprising bib, cap and shoes, have two spools of No. 8 cotton, one 
white and one baby pink or blue. Hooks are numbered differently by different manufac- 
turers. An English hook should be No. 6. 

After making the pieces according to direction for the doll, it will be an easy matter 
to increase the number of stitches and make them large enough for a child. Baby ribbon 
the color of the thread will be wanted for all. 

Doll's Bib: (Model 5.) This begins at the bottom. Make a chain of 25 and work 
back on this chain 1 tr. in the 4th ch. * Ch. 1, skip 1 ch., 2 tr. in the next 2 ch. Repeat 
from * to end of row. 

2nd row — Ch. 3, turn, 1 tr. in first dc. * Ch. 1, 2 tr. over next first ch. of previous row. 
Continue from * to end of row. Finish with 1 ch. and 2 tr. in loop stitch at end of row below. 

Work 12 more rows like the second row. There will be an increase of 2 tr. (1 pair) on 
each row. This will end the body part of the bib. The sides are crocheted separately. To 
make the bib shapely, follow the directions carefully. 

15th row: Ch. 3, turn, 1 tr. in last tr. of previous row, ch. 1, 2 tr. over 1st ch. Make 
5 more pairs of tr. with 1 ch. between — 7 in all. 

1 6th row: Turn, 1 tr. over first ch. Make 5 more pairs of tr. with 1 ch. between. At end 
of row, 2 tr. in last tr. of row below. 

Repeat alternately the 15th and 16th rows 3 times, having 8 rows in all. 

23rd row — Ch. 4, turn, 2 tr. over the next ch. Repeat 1 ch. and 2 tr. 4 times. Ch. I, 1 
tr. in 3rd ch. of previous row. 

24th row — Ch. 3, turn, 1 tr. over next ch. Repeat 1 ch., 2 tr. 5 times. 

Repeat the 23rd and 24th rows alternately 3 times, making 8 rows more. Cut the thread 
and draw the end through the last loop to fasten it. 

For the other side, count off the spaces and stitches, and follow the same directions. 

Crochet the last row with colored thread. Thread ribbon through the row of beading at 
the back and the two rows of beading at the front and sew on ribbon tie ends long enough 
to make a good bow at the throat. 

Doll's Cap: (Model 6.) Make chain of 5 stitches and form into a ring with 1 slst. in 
first loop. This is the front of the bonnet. 

1st row: Ch. 3 and make 20 tr. over the ring of 5 ch. Close with 1 slst. 

2nd row: Ch 4, 1 tr. on top of next tr. * ch. 1, 1 tr. in next tr. Continue from * to end of 
row and join. 

3rd row: Ch. 4, * 1 tr. over next ch., 1 ch., 1 tr. over next tr., ch. 1. Repeat from * to 
end of row and join. 

4th row: Ch. 5, 1 tr. over next ch. * 2 ch., 1 tr. over next ch. Repeat from * to end of 
row and join. 

5th row: Work exactly like the 4th row. 

6th row: Ch. 3, 2 tr. over next 2 ch. * 3 tr. over following space of 2 ch. Repeat from 
* all around cap and join. 

7th row: * Ch. 4, skip 2 tr. of previous row, make 1 dc. in the 3rd tr. Repeat from * to 
end of row. 

40 




MODEL 2 




MODEL 3 




MODEL 4- 




MODEL 7 




COURTESY OF THE 0. N. T. THREAD CO. 



MODEL 6 



4i 



8th row: * Ch. 4, 1 dc. in center of next ch. row of 4 ch. Repeat from * all around, 
oth, ioth, and nth rows: The same as 8th row. 

12th row: Ch. 3, 3 tr. over next 4 ch. of previous row. * 4 tr. over next 4 ch. Repeat 
from * to end of row and join. 

13th row: Ch. 5. * Skip 2 tr. of previous row, make 1 tr. in 3rd. Ch. 2 and repeat from 

* to end of row and join. 

14th row: Ch. 5. * 1 tr. on top of next tr., ch. 2. Repeat from * until there are 12 

squares left, then ch. 5 and turn the work. 

15th row: Going back, work the 14th row from * to beginning of 14th row. Turn. 
16th row: Ch. 3, 2 tr. over next 2 ch. * 3 tr. over second ch. Repeat from * to end of 

row. 

17th to 20th row: Work the same as from 7th to 1 ith row. 

21st row: Is to be worked like the 12th row. Next make the rows from 13 to 16 over 

again. 

Now chain 5 and work around the neck part, 2 ch. and 1 tr. catch, over each next space. 
When the next row is finished, work the front without breaking the thread, 3 ch., skip 2 tr., 
1 dc. in 3rd tr. Repeat this alternately for 3 rows on front and once around neck. 

The last row may be worked with a colored thread, pink or blue. Baby ribbon may 
finish it. 

Doll's Shoes: (Model 7.) These may be made of silk, wool, or cotton but cotton will 
be most practical for a class of children. 

Ch. 63 and close in a ring with 1 slst. in the first stitch. This is for the top of the shoe. 

1st row: Ch. 4, skip 1 ch. and make 1 tr. in the 2nd ch. * Ch. 1, skip 1 and make 1 tr. in 
2nd ch. Repeat from * all around and close with 1 sc. 

2nd row: Ch. 4, * skip 1 tr. of previous row, 1 tr. over next 1st ch., ch. 1, repeat from * 
all around and join. 

3rd row: Ch. 3, 1 tr. in the 2nd space of 1 ch., then continue as in 2nd row with 1 ch. and 
1 tr. over 1 ch. alternately. Finish with 1 tr., skip the last ch. space and slip on the 3rd 
stitch of the 3 ch. that began this row. 

4th row: Ch. 3, 1 tr. over next 1st ch. Continue to end of row, until 1 space of 1 ch. is 
left with 2 tr. in each 1 ch. Slip the last tr. to the 3rd ch. of beginning. 

N< >w work one more row like 3rd row, 1 more row like 4th row, and 2 more rows like 3rd 
row. 

If white thread has been used for the top it will be well to introduce a color — pink or 
blue — for the ankle and foot. Cut off the thread, thread it into a needle, and fasten it with 
tiny stitches. 

1st row: Loop the new thread into a stitch, count 8 spaces from it (this is for the ankle), 
catch into the 9th space, ch. 3 and then make 2 tr. in each of the next 9 spaces. 

2nd row: Ch. 4, turn, skip 1 tr. and make 1 tr. in 2nd tr. Ch. 1 and repeat to end of 
row. 

W( »rk the 3rd and 5th rows like the 1st row and the 4th row like the 2nd. 

To make the sole, ch. 1, turn to side of ankle and work 2 dc. in each space; where the 
ankk- begins, skip on both sides 1 to 2 spaces, according to the foot of the doll. 

Work two more rows like the one just described. When the last dc. is joined, ch. 3 and 
make 3 tr. rows all around. For the last row make tr. in every other tr. of previous row. 
Cut the thread, leaving an end long enough to use in sewing the shoe together on the bottom. 

For the top finish, use the same color as that in the ankle and foot part. Loop the thread 
with a stitch for the top row, * chain 4, 1 dc. in next space, ch. 4, repeat from * to end of row 
and join. Cut the thread and fasten with stitches that do not show. 

Crocheted Edge: (Model 8.) This may be done with white or colored cotton. It 
makes an excellent finish for necks and sleeves of underwear and dresses for little girls or 
their dolls. First make the narrowest possible hem. 

1st row: With the crochet hook, draw a loop of the thread through the fabric just at the 
base of the hem. Ch. 4, skip a space the length of 1 chain about % in., make 1 dc, ch. I, 
1 dc, and so to end of hem. 




MODEL 5 




i „iu.~J.t tlu 



MODEL 3 

COURTESY OF THE O. N. T. THREAD COMPANY 



43 



2nd row: Ch. 3, 1 tr. in first ch. space, ch. 2, skip 1 ch. space, 2 tr. in 2nd ch. space. 
Continue to end. 

3rd row: Ch. 3, 1 dc. between 2 tr., ch. 2, 1 dc. in next ch. space. Continue to end. 

4th row: Ch. 4, 1 sc. in 1st space, 1 sc. in next stitch, ch. 4, in sc, and so to end. These 
loops are called picots. 



44 




CHAPTER VI 



KNITTING 



Knitting is done with thread or yarn of cotton, wool, silk, or linen and 
with steel, celluloid, bone, or wood needles. Steel needles are used for all 
but the coarsest knitting. Flat pieces such as wash cloths, belts, etc., are 
knit with two needles. Round pieces such as stockings, mittens, etc., with 
four or five needles. Americans generally use four; Europeans use five. 
The result is the same. Whatever the number of needles, each needle in 
turn is used in the right hand to pick up, knit, and transfer to itself, one by 
one, the stitches from the left hand needle. At the beginning, all the 
stitches are on the left hand needle ; at the end, they are on the other. 

For a little girl who is learning to knit, it is best to use cotton or wool 
yarn of medium weight with needles that suit it in size. The work should 
be set up for her and two or three rows knit. Pamphlets with full direc- 
tions and copious illustrations of the different stitches and of models of all 
kinds may be bought in the shops at small cost. 

For evenness and good tension, it is necessary to hold the yarn or thread 
right. Wind it once around the little finger of the right hand, pass it under 
the third and second fingers and over the first joint of the forefinger. The 
forefinger throws the thread over the right hand needle at every stitch. 

There are several ways to cast on stitches but the best way is with one 
needle, knitting them on to make a firm edge. Allow a length of thread 
long enough for all the stitches, make a loop, and slip it on the needle. Hold 
the thread that comes from the ball in the right hand as described. Pick 

45 



up the other thread in the left hand, passing it under the three fingers, over 
the thumb and under the forefinger. Use the forefinger like a hook to hook 
the loop that is on the thumb off the thumb and over on this forefinger. 
Now pick up the nearest thread of this loop on the forefinger with the 
needle, throw the right hand thread under the point and over the needle 
and draw it through, making the second stitch on the needle. If two 
needles are used, cast the stitches on one needle; if four or five needles are 
used, cast all the stitches on one needle and the next time around knit them 
off on three or four needles according to the number used, dividing the 
stitches evenly among them. Leave one needle empty for knitting. 

Plain Stitch : (Model i .) All the stitches are on the left hand needle. 
The thread is back of the needles. Slip the right hand needle from left to 
right under the front thread of the first stitch, throw the thread around the 
point of the right hand needle from left to right, draw the new loop through 
the old stitch, and slip the old stitch off the left hand needle. 

Garter Stitch: Two needles are used and the plain stitch is knit back 
and forth row after row, resulting in alternate rows of plain and purl. 

Purl or Seam Stitch: (Model 2.) Throw the thread in front of the 
needles. Pass the right hand needle from right to left under the front thread 
of the first stitch on the left hand needle, throw the thread around the point 
of the right hand needle from right to left and draw it through, slipping the 
old stitch off the left hand needle. 

To Widen or Increase the Number of Stitches : (Model 3.) Knit the 
front thread of the stitch, leaving the old stitch on the left hand needle. 
Then knit the back thread of the same stitch. This makes two stitches 
where there was one. It leaves no hole. 

To Narrow or Decrease the Number of Stitches: Knit two stitches 
together like one. 

To Make a Hole for Ornamental Work: Put the thread around the 
needle and then pick up two stitches and knit them together like one. On 
the next row, knit the thread that is over the needle like a stitch. 

To Bind off Stitches at the End of a Piece: (Model 4.) Knit the 
stitches one by one and slip the right hand one over the new stitch con- 
tinuously. 

In the descriptions given abbreviations are as follows: Plain Stitch, k; 
Purl or Seam, p; Widen, w; Narrow, n; Hole, h. 

Child's Wristlets: Use colored wool for the body part and white for 
the stripes. The number of stitches used will depend upon the kind of wool 
and the size of wrist to be fitted. Cast enough stitches on one needle that 
shoved close together will make a string long enough to go tight around the 
wrist. Then k 1, p 1, alternately. When finished there will be alternate 
vertical rows of plain and purl stitch. Introduce white stripes about half an 
inch from top and bottom. Make them 3 rows wide and 6 rows apart. When 
the band of knitting is as long as the wristlets are to be deep, bind off and 
sew up. These wristlets may be knit round from the start by using 4 needles. 

Baby's Scarf or Wrap with Cuffs: (Model 5.) Materials, Shetland 

'. and steel needles No. 10 and bone needles No. 4. 

46 







47 



Cast 44 stitches on one of the steel needles. K i, P i for a depth of iK in. Knit the 
stitches off on a bone needle and knit garter stitch with the bone needles until there is a 
length of 22 inches. Knit off on steel needles for the cuff and make like the first. The entire 
length from edge to edge is 25 inches. The cuffs are 5 in. around. The depth at the back is 

8 in. Sew up the cuffs and crochet scallop around scarf and edges of cuffs. For the Scallop: 
slst, 1 ch., 1 tr., 1 ch., 1 tr., 1 ch., 1 tr., 1 ch., 1 slst. Skip 1 rib between each two scallops. 
Measure 5>£ in. from top of cuffs and sew on tie ribbons. 

To make a scarf for an adult, set up Co stitches on a steel needle. Knit 
as directed. When the cuff is deep enough widen every other stitch, making 
90 in all, knitting them on one of the bone needles. 

To make a scarf for a little girl, cast on 50 stitches. The scarf will be 

9 or 10 in. wide. Germantown wool may be used. These scarfs make 
excellent gifts for babies' hospitals and for destitute children. 



48 








CHAPTER VII 



BASKETS 



No basket is a good basket which is not suited in size, shape, and strength 
to the use for which it was made. An honest basket is like an honest person. 
It is true to its purpose in character and it is as strong and reliable as it looks. 

Before beginning the basket lessons get together from the teachers and 
from friends different kinds of baskets and let the children examine them, 
discover their material, and decide upon their use. Let them discuss their 
suitability for the use for which they were made. Are they strong enough — 
too stout — are the handles firm — are the handles conveniently placed — does 
the shape fit the need or is the top too small to allow the contents to be 
found easily or too open to hold it in? No one will make a good basket until 
these things are considered wisely. 

The children will be interested to know that people made baskets even 
before they made pottery; that, in fact, baskets were the first molds for 
pottery — fragments with basketry imprints in the museums prove this. 
Of all peoples our own American Indians have made the most wonderful 
baskets, in variety of materials and weaves. In the old days the Indians 
used them not only for holding and carrying their possessions but also for 
cradling their babies, mixing their food, and even for cooking. The cooking 
basket is so closely woven that it holds water. Red hot stones are thrown 
into the basket with the water and food. The cooking basket is not put 
over the fire. Some of the American Indian baskets are so choice and rare 
that they have sold for more than a thousand dollars each. 

49 



Many of the materials growing about us are useful for basketry— grasses 
of various kinds, notably blue grass, sweet grass, marsh grass, and beach 
grass; twigs and branchlets from trees, especially the willow: bulrushes, 
cat-tail leaves, sedges, corn husks, the long pine needles that grow in the 
South, and splints shredded from the beaten fiber of certain trees. The big 
oblong market baskets are made of splints. Show the children, if you can, 
a willow and a reed basket and call their attention to the difference — some 
of the teachers will need to learn this. Willow is the peeled branchlets of 
the tree that we all know. Reed is a parasite vine-like palm called rattan, 
which grows to great length, sometimes 200 or 300 feet, in far eastern 
tropics. The husk of this vine cut into strips becomes the cane used in the 
seats of chairs. The pulp is reed. It is put through machinery and comes 
out in a great many different sizes. Seventeen sizes are sold in this country — 
from 00, the finest, to No. 15, the coarsest. The coarse sizes, those above 
Nos. 5 and 6, are used only for handles or for hampers, stout baskets, and 
furniture. Willow, because it retains the skin that grows under the bark, is 
of a silkier texture. Its short strands make it a little more difficult to work 
with, but it lends itself to very attractive rustic pieces and to strong 
basketry. 

Raffia is the stripped fiber of a palm which grows in Madagascar. 

A day's outing with a few of the older children for basket materials is 
one of the delightful possibilities for a class. Every city lies within reach of 
a beach, marsh, meadow, hill, or woods and most such places are rich in 
products for the basket teacher. Children who obtain their own materials 
develop an interest in growing things and baskets which they will not lose 
and by so much are their experience and resources broadened. 

Long slender tubular stemmed grass is best. Like bulrushes, cat-tail 
leaves, and sedges it will need to dry out for a week or so to make practical 
work. Otherwise it will shrink away from the stitches which bind its coils. 
Before using any of these materials, wrap them in a wet cloth over night to 
become pliable. Corn husks contribute greatly to such work if the husks 
with beautifully streaked and silky inner layers can be obtained. These 
would have to be on hand from a former year, since only the ripe husks 
are colored. A basket of grass and husks is shown in which the crimson 
streakings and yellow-green tone of the husks produce a most artistic effect. 
These materials may all be used in the same manner as the long pine needles, 
descriptions of which follow : 

Reed Baskets: Numbers 2, 3, and 4 are best for the children. Reed 
varies greatly in quality. Good reed is smooth, of light color, and tough. 
Poor reed is shaggy and brittle. Do not attempt to use poor reed in. teach- 
ing. 

Reed is sold in pound twists, the price depending upon its size. The 
finest costs most. It is cheapest in five or ten pound twists of each size. 
A pound each of Nos. 2 and 3 will make from seven to ten baskets of medium 
size if the reed is not wasted. 

Never bring the twist of reed into the class. Have it ready in single 
strand coils— draw the strands one by one from the twist, winding each into 

50 




noD&t. i 



i 




,,•„ 



MODEL 2> 




MODEL4 



r.*^ 




MODE. U 3 




MODEL 7 



a coil and securing the last end by twisting it over and under several times. 
Do not allow the reed being used by the children to get on the floor under 
their feet. 

Implements needed: Strong sharp scissors, sharp knife, awl, stiletto, or 
coarse knitting needle, blunt-nosed pliers. The last may be bought at 
Five and Ten Cent Stores. A pail or basin of water should be at hand for 
dipping and every child should have a wet cloth with which to keep the 
reed moist. 

A round reed basket has two parts — the ribs and the weavers. The ribs 
radiate from the center of the bottom and are vertical at the sides. The 
weavers thread over and under the ribs producing the weave. The ribs of 
the bottom are called by professionals "spokes" and of the sides, "stakes." 
For convenience, ribs of both bottom and sides will here be called "spokes." 
Spokes should be at least one size coarser than the weaver. In coarse work 
they should be two or three sizes larger. 

General Directions: Spokes should never be more than ^ inch 
apart. In fine work they should be closer. 

Keep the spokes from first to last at even distances apart. 

Never weave with dry reed. Soak the reed in warm or cold water until 
it is pliable. The length of time needed for soaking depends upon the size. 
Coarse needs longer than fine. Number 2 will need about 5 minutes; Nos. 
3 and 4, about 15 minutes. Over-soaking changes the color and makes the 
reed brittle and shaggy. 

When a reed is to be bent at right angles to itself or back upon itself, 
as in a spoke finish or handle, soak it until it is very pliable, and then crush 
it at the point to be bent with blunt-nosed pliers. If these are not at hand, 
twist it at this point. 

To piece weavers, cross the old and the new one back of a spoke in the 
inside of the basket. 

To finish off a weaver, thread it through a row of weaving inside the 
basket. 

In cutting reed, always cut slantingvvise — never straight. 

Trim all ends inside the basket so that each will lie just back of a spoke 
which will keep it from slipping. 

Should a spoke break, sharpen the end of another and thread it far down 
into the weaving beside the broken one and then cut off the broken one close 
to the weaving. In inserting new spokes or threading the ends of extra 
spokes into the weaving, make a way for them by forcing the weaving apart 
with the stiletto, knitting needle, or awl. 

Spoke Finish: When the basket has reached its desired size, and the 
weaving is finished, the spokes which are left projecting upward or outward 
are used to make the finish of the edge. There are many ways of doing this. 
Three ways are used in the models shown. For convenience these three 
ways will be called "Single Border," "Double Border," and "Looped 
Border. " When the work is completed, the spokes are cut off slantingwise 
just beyond the spoke at the right. 

Single Border: Pass each spoke in front of one at the right and into 

5i 



the basket, threading the last spoke through the loop made by the 
first. 

Double Border: This is made in two rows: Pass each spoke in turn 
back of one spoke, at the right and out, threading the last through the loop 
made by the first. Then, pass each spoke in front of two and thread it into 
the basket through the adjoining opening. 

Looped Border: Sharpen the ends of all the spokes. Thread each in 
turn into the weave just beyond the second spoke at the right, pushing it 
down through the weave. Draw all the loops down evenly. 

After a basket is finished, it may need to be dipped and then be modelled 
into perfect shape by the hands. 

Weaving: The following weaves are introduced in the baskets illus- 
trated: Single, Double, and Japanese. 

Single Weave: One weaver with odd number of spokes. Pass the 
weaver over and under spoke after spoke in turn. 

Double Weave : The same as single weave except that two weavers are 
used side by side. 

Japanese Weave: One weaver and any number of spokes that is not 
divisible by three. Pass the weaver over two spokes and under one 
continuously. 

In weaving a basket always hold the outside of the basket towards you. 

To make a firm base for a round reed basket, bend the spokes slightly 
downward to make a concave bottom. When the bottom is finished, finish 
off the weaver turn the work over and weave from the other side. 

Beginning a Basket : A round reed basket is begun at the center of the 
bottom, half the spokes crossing the other half at right angle's. Spokes 
should be cut long enough to reach across the bottom, to the top of the 
opposite sides and to make the spoke finish of the top edge. 

There are many ways of beginning a basket. One is used in the models 
given. (Model I.) Cross half the spokes over the other half, make all 
ends even and for the children, tie with raffia. For the first lesson, the 
teacher will do well to have all the baskets started and the weaving begun. 
When the children begin the basket themselves for the first few times, tie 
the crossed spokes with raffia before beginning the weaving. 

Always have a finished model for the children to see. 

The following books on basketry are reliable: Mary White's two books, 
How to Make Baskets and More Baskets and How to Make Them, pub- 
lished by Doubleday, Page & Co. ; and the Basketry Book, by Mary Blan- 
chard, Charles Scribner's Sons. 

Reed may be bought at School Supply Houses such as Milton Bradley's, 
Fifth Avenue, New York City; J. L. Hammett, Bush Terminal, Brooklyn, 
N. Y.; the American Reed and Rattan Manufacturing Co., 268 Norman 
Ave., Brooklyn, N. Y. ; the New England Reed Co., 9 Green Street, Boston. 

Reed Mat: (Model 2.) No. 4 reed for spokes and No. 2 weavers. Cut 8 spokes 12 in. 
long and 1 spoke, 6 in. Begin as described. Catch one end of a weaver under a group of the 
spokes and weave over and under the groups of four three times; weave over and under the 

52 





MODEL 9 




MODE.L. 5 




MOD&L 6 




MODEL 8 



spokes in pairs three times ; weave over and under the spokes singly once. Sharpen one end 
of the odd spoke and insert it between the last spoke of the first circuit and the first spoke of 
the second one. Proceed with the single weave until the mat is 6}4 in. across. Finish off 
the weaver. See that the spokes are of equal length and sharpen all the ends. Pass each 
spoke across one and thread it into the weave at the side of the second spoke from it. 

Little Girl's Work Basket: (Model 3.) This basket is 5^ in. across the top. No. 4 
reed for spokes and No. 2 weavers. Cut 8 spokes 19 in. long and 1,9 m. Proceed as in the 
reed mat (Model 2), making 16 rows of single weave and bending the spokes down slightly. 
This makes a concave bottom and a firm base. Finish off the weaver. Turn the work over, 
insert a new weaver, and bend the spokes upward slowly for 16 rows. Then bend them 
straight up for 10 rows. Finish off the weaver. Finish with the double border. 

The Handle: Cut 3 No. 4 reeds i6>^ in. long. Sharpen both ends of all. Thread one 
of these_ through the weaving on opposite sides under the spoke finish to the bottom. Thread 
the others one by one through the same spaces, twisting each around the first 4 times. Cut 
2 strands of No. 2, 25 in. long. Thread 1 strand through the basket from the inside out and 
each side the handle under the spoke finish. Twine it around the handle following the 
other coil. Insert the other strand at the opposite side and repeat. Then bring the ends 
across the handle at each side in an x — (see basket). 

Side Handle Basket: (Model 4.) Number 4 spokes and No. 2 weavers. Cut 8 spokes 
19 in. and 1, 9 in. Begin as before. Make 16 rows of single weave. Turn the work over as 
before. Bend the spokes directly up and make 10 rows of single weave; 6 rows of double 
weave; 7 rows single weave. Finish with a single border. Handles: Cut 2 pieces No. 4, 6 
in. long. Sharpen all the ends and insert each side, leaving 3 spaces of weaving between 
each two ends. Loop a No. 2 reed around one end of each and twine back and forth around 
the No. 4, threading the No. 2 into the weaving at the top at each turn. This makes the 
handle firm. 

Handled Cake Tray: (Model 5.) No. 4 spokes and No. 2 weavers. The bottom of 
this basket is 8 in. across; the sides are iyi in. deep including the loop finish. In the two 
preceding models there have been 16 spokes. This basket requires twice as many. For 
this reason, additional spokes are introduced near the edge of the bottom. Cut 8 spokes 
18 in. long and 17, 9 in. Sharpen one end of each of the short ones. Begin as before with 
the long spokes, introducing one of the short spokes. Make 15 rows of single weaving; 4 
rows, double weave; insert one of the short spokes at one side each of the original ones 
and push it down through the first row of single weaving. Cut off the original odd spoke 
and push the others around even. Make 7 rows Japanese weave; 4 rows, double weave; 
2 rows single weave. 

To keep this bottom from warping, fasten 6 straps of narrow tape across it and thumb 
tack them an inch from the edge to a small board. These straps must not conflict with the 
spokes. Then turn the spokes up sharply, after a thorough soaking with a cloth or sponge, 
and make 10 rows of single weave. Finish with the loop border. 

The Handle: Cut 2 No. 4 reeds 19^ in. long, sharpen all the ends and thread them 
through the weaving at opposite sides, winding them around each other three times and 
making the two strands at each side six- spaces apart. Thread a No. 3 weaver through the 
weaving from inside out and wind around the No. 4 pieces, making each turn take an 
opposite direction so that it will cross, not follow, the preceding strand. Thread the ends 
through the weaving of sides and bottom. 

Work Basket with Over Spoke Finish: (Model 6.) No. 2 spokes and No. 2 weavers. 
Cut 8 spokes 25 in. long and 18, 13 in. Begin as before and make 10 rows of single weave. 
Insert a short spoke next each of the original ones pushing it through to the first row of 
weaving. Using the spokes double continue with single weaving until the bottom is €>% in. 
diameter. Turn the work over and make 22 rows of single weave, bending the spokes up 
straight at the first, then slightly in. For the spoke finish: Bring each pair of spokes in 
turn over one spoke, under one spoke and thread the ends through the weaving of the 
bottom, next the third pair of spokes. 

Vase: (Model 7.) The vase shown is made over an olive bottle that is 8 in. high. But 
because bottles differ in size and shape directions are given for a bottle of any size. Jelly 

53 



glasses and other shapes may also be covered for flower holders. Use No. 2 reed for spokes 
and No. i for weavers. Cut the spokes long enough to cross the bottom and both sides and 
add 8 in. for the top spoke finish. Make the bottom 2 in. larger than that of the bottle. 
Bend the spokes sharply up and make 12 rows of single weave. Bend them in towards the 
bottle until they are near its sides and weave to the top. The Spoke Finish: Bring each 
spoke under 2 and out and thread it through 3 rows of weaving next the 3rd spoke. 

The Handle: Cut two No. 2 reeds 44 in. long and sharpen all the ends. Thread one 
of these from the bottom row of weaving through the inside and out above the 15th row, 
leaving 7 in. hanging from the bottom row on each side. Thread the other strand through 
1 24 in. from the first, twine it around the first twelve times, and bring it out on the other 
side like the first. Bring the end of each strand at each side up, twine it around the lower 
part of the split handle and loop it around as shown. 

The Tray: (Model 8.) This tray has a wooden bottom 15^ in. long and 10 in. wide. 
A seasoned board should be used. One of several layers such as is made for pyrography is 
best. A tray of any size oval or round may be used with the directions that follow. No. 4 
reed for spokes and No. 2, weavers. Punch an odd number of holes in the board & in. from 
the edge and *4 in. apart, making them just large enough to admit the coarse reed. Cut 
as many 10 in. spokes as there are holes. Thread the spokes through the holes allowing 
each to project 2>4 in. on the under side. Fasten the spokes so that they will not slip by 
bringing each of the under side ends over the one at the right and threading the last through 
the loop made by the first. The ends will project towards the center. Turn the board over, 
pull the spokes into shape, and make 20 rows of single weaving. Finish with the double 
spoke border. 

Rattle: (Model 9.) No. 1 reed for spokes and weavers. Cut 8 spokes 11 in. long 
and 1, 6 in. Cross 4 over 4 and weave over and under groups of 4 with raffia 4 times. 
Draw airthe ends even. With the raffia make 6 rows of single weave over single spokes, 
introducing the short spoke after the first row. Finish off the raffia weaver. Introduce a 
reed weaver and make 16 rows of single weave, bending the spokes as indicated by the 
picture. Finish off the weaver. Sew a tiny bell in the bottom. Thread a glass bead on 
each spoke. Make 10 rows of single weave. Make a 3-strand braid of the spokes and 
cut the ends off 8 in. from the weaving. Use raffia to wind these ends very close with the 
base of the braid 2 in. from the last row of weaving. 

Coiled and Sewed Basketry: It is in coiled and sewed basketry that 
native products such as grass, pine needles, corn husks, etc., are brought into 
use. The coils may be bound or sewed with any suitable pliable material 
-the amateur uses raffia because it is easily obtained and of desirable 
texture. With children, coarse hemp cord is practical because it is cheap, 
easily obtained, and it is pliable and consequently easy to handle. Coarse 
reed is also used. When cord or reed is employed, a stitch is used that 
entirely covers the coil as in Model 10. When a beautiful texture, such as 
grass or pine needles, is used, the stitches should be made subordinate to the 
material, using the kind of stitches and just enough of them to make the 
work firm and bring out the natural colors of the coils. 

Raffia and 34 in. hemp cord. (Model 10.) About 30 feet of cord will 
be wanted. Wind this in a ball. Cut off an inch from a strand of the cord 
at one end, thread a No. 19 raffia needle with natural raffia, and wrap this 
end for an inch with the raffia. Then coil the end into a close ring like the 
pine-needle details. (Models 10a and 10b.) Sew over and over this coil in 
closely placed stitches, adding a new coil and sewing over these two once 
»und. On the third row begin the lazy squaw stitch. In each stitch the 
wraps the new coil twice and then sews under the old and over the 

54 




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new, binding the two together. (Model ioc.) Make a mat in this way that 
is 5 in. in diameter. Then begin the sides. Place each coil directly on top 
of the coil that preceded it instead of beside it as before. Make 3 rows. 
Let the new coil extend beyond the preceding coil slightly for 4 rows. 
Bring the new coil slightly in from the preceding one for 6 rows to make 
the top smaller. To finish the coil at the top, cut away the strands for sev- 
eral inches, one by one, so that the coil will diminish and gradually lose 
itself under a stitch. In Model 10, natural raffia is used for the body of 
the basket with brown introduced at the base and top edge and orange in 
broken lines below. 

Pine-Needle Basket: (Model n.) Pine needles are sold by school 
supply houses in pound and half-pound bundles. They average 12 inches in 
length and are packed as they grow, in clusters of three. Do not remove the 
natural binders of these clusters until they are to be used and never pull the 
needles apart separately. Always work with the clusters. Before beginning 
a basket soak the needles that will be wanted for the first few coils four or 
five hours or wrap them in a wet towel overnight. 

Pine needles when dry are a glossy green-brown of silky texture. Do 
not make the mistake of hiding their beauty with fancy stitches. Use the 
stitch and the color for sewing that will best bring out the native colors. 

Model 11 is 6 in. across the widest part; 5 in. across at the top; 2Y2 in- 
deep. It is sewed with raffia of a soft brown shade which harmonizes with 
the color of the pine needles. Two stitches are used, the tie stitch and the 
wheat stitch. 

The Tie Stitch : (Model 1 lb.) This stitch is very firm and is used both 
for ornament and to give rigidity to the work. Make two stitches over the 
old coil and the loose strands of the new coil putting the needle from front 
to back each time and always through the same hole. Then put the needle 
over once more but this time to the left of the new stitch, across the stitch, 
and down through to the right of the new stitch, drawing the raffia down 
tight. Draw the raffia across the back of the work and start a new stitch 
34 in. from the first. In succeeding rows, put the needle between the two 
strands of the stitch below the new coil. 

The Wheat Stitch: Bring the needle three times from back to front 
over the old coil and the loose strands of the new coil, putting the needle 
three times through the same hole. Then stretch the raffia across the 
front of the work (this makes the characteristic sprangle) , over the upper 
coil, and back through to the front below the old coil. Repeat as before. 
On the second and succeeding rows take the new stitch each time between 
the two strands of the stitch directly under it. The wheat stitches should 
not be too close. In Model 11 they are ^4 in. apart at the bottom and 1Y2 
in. at the top. 

To start the basket, remove the natural binders from two clusters of need- 
les, thread a strand into the raffia needle, and wind the two clusters together 
over and over at their joined ends for about an inch. (Model 10a.) Wind in 
a tight coil and sew over and over putting the stitches close together to 
cover the coils. (Model 10b.) Sew around the ring in this way, bringing 

55 



all the stitches from the center. Over the next row make 6 tie stitches and 
continue for 3 rows, adding more clusters to the coil until there are 5. 
Make a stitch between each of the 2 stitches and continue until the bottom 
is 3V2 m - across. (Model 11a.) In splicing the coils as the pine needles 
diminish, push the joined end of a new cluster into the middle of the coil 
hiding the end. To make the sides, put the coils directly over each other for 
4 rows instead of beside each other as before. Use the wheat stitch; then 
let the coils project slightly to the outside for 6 rows; for 4 rows draw them 
towards the center making the top smaller. To finish the top, diminish the 
coil until the end disappears under a stitch. 

Straw Basket: (Model 12.) Straw of a golden yellow is used in this 
basket, which after several years has lost none of its beautiful sunny color. 
It is sewed with brown fiber but raffia serves a similar purpose. The ray 
stitch is the only one used. The ray stitch is the simplest stitch of all. Sew 
over and over taking each new stitch in the top thread of the stitch that is 
under it. To do this, put the needle from back to front under the old 
coil, through the stitch at the right from right to left and over the new coil. 
Use the coils as described under the Pine-Needle Basket. 

Grass and Husk: (Model 13.) This is made with grass overlaid in 
places with strips of beautifully colored husk from the silky layers next the 
ears. It is sewed with the ray stitch. Beautiful color schemes may be 
obtained with husks. It is possible to use the husks alone. 




Easily Woven Reed Scrap Basket 



56 




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CHAPTER VIII 
CANING 

Shapes of chair seats, square, oblong, round. 

Materials : 3 wooden pegs which may be made by the boys in carpentry 
class, or wooden meat skewers; clippers or strong scissors, piece of cloth to 
moisten cane while working, fine or medium cane for weaving, heavy cane 
or "beading" for couching. 

The process may be learned by using a frame like a slate frame prepared 
for this purpose by having holes drilled in it. 

Preparation: Soak cane in tepid water about 15 minutes. Keep the 
cane moist with a cloth. This is especially necessary when turning the 
heavy cane or "beading" at corners. If the cane is too moist it will dis- 
color and split. 

To reseat a chair which has been caned by machine use this method: 
With a sharp knife cut away the old cane seat close to the frame. Sand- 
paper the edges of the frame. Drill holes in a straight line through the center 
of the frame, being careful that they shall be opposite each other on the 
parallel sides. 

Beginning or First Layer: Always start in middle of sides or back and 
work either to right or left. Thread a strand of cane down through a hole 
leaving about 3 in. on the under side. Hold it firmly by inserting a wooden 
peg in the same hole. Stretch cane across chair to corresponding hole on 
opposite side. Pass down through this second hole and secure with second 
peg. Bring up through next hole from underneath side of chair. Stretch 
cane across to opposite hole and peg with third peg. Continue this process 
until this half of frame is covered, changing second and third pegs from place 
to place as work proceeds. Do not remove first peg until end has been 
secured underneath, by winding it around cane between first and second 
holes. Follow same directions for other half. 

Joining: Carry short end of cane across the next hole underneath the 
chair and introduce new strand from above as at beginning, loop this over 
short end and up through same hole to surface, so that the two are carried as 
a double strand for a short distance. Secure end of original strand by 

57 



winding over cane underneath, moistening to prevent breaking when 

winding. 

Second Layer : Repeat these directions on the remaining sides, weaving 
under and over the cross lines of cane. 

Third Layer: Begin at hole next corner instead of middle. Use same 
holes as for first layer, weaving cane over second layer. 

Fourth Layer: Begin at hole next corner. Use holes of second layer, 
weaving over and under first and third layers, being careful not to twist nor 
misplace the strands. 

Diagonals: Begin in corner hole. Carry cane diagonally over vertical 
and under horizontal canes. Reverse, under vertical and over horizontal 
for opposite direction. 

To Finish Chair : Peg piece of heavy cane into a corner hole ; lay it over 
holes on upper surface. Fasten a piece of fine cane to the under side of the 
chair by winding it around cane already woven in. With this strand couch 
the beading on by passing it up through next hole, over beading and down 
through same hole, then up through next hole and so on. Turn corner 
carefully, having beading moist so that it shall not be broken. Finish in the 
starting hole, remove peg, and wind end underneath. 



58 




Raw Flax and Cotton Bolls 



CHAPTER IX 
WEAVING 

Although weaving, because it requires close application, is not favored 
by educators for young children, it may be made the subject of some most 
entertaining and instructive talks to all the boys and girls above kindergar- 
ten age and may provide practical occupation for a few of the larger children. 
The girls will enjoy making rugs for their dolls' houses, skirts for their dolls, 
purses for themselves, and the boys will make school bags and rugs if the 
material is coarse and strong enough to interest them. But do not try to 
teach weaving unless you know the best methods — no teaching at all is 
better than poor teaching. The Daily Vacation Bible School should not 
teach methods that public schools will later have to correct. 

It will add greatly to the interest of this subject if the supervisor has 
some cotton bolls, a wool roll, silk cocoons, and, if it is possible, some flax 
in the raw. She may circulate these among the teachers of the various 
schools for a series of talks or may herself show them as she visits the 
schools. She will also need some very coarse loosely woven bagging or 
burlap which she can distribute in pieces to the teachers unless she herself 
gives the talks. 

Let the children examine the materials of their own clothing — cotton in 
the girls' dresses, wool in the boys' clothes, linen in collars, and silk in hair 
ribbons. Tell the children that of all the world's workers, about one fourth 
are busy growing cotton, wool, flax, and silk, preparing these various 
products for spinning and weaving, and spinning and weaving them into 
materials such as thread, cord, yarn, rope, ribbon, and wide fabrics. Give 
them the pieces of bagging. Tell them that the threads parallel with the 
selvage are called warp. Have them hold them with the warp vertical and 
let them ravel the woof. In most fabrics the warp is heavier than the 
woof. Explain that the thread must be spun before it is woven. 

59 



Silk is the most interesting of all because the little silkworm docs so 
much of the work and does it so perfectly. Tell the children that silk 
does not have to be spun like cotton, wool, or flax because the little worm 
does all the spinning itself. 

Let the children examine a cocoon and tell them that it contains about 
iooo yards of double thread in a continuous length without knot or other 
joining and that it is all ready to be unwound from the cocoon. Let the 
children see how fine the thread is. Tell them that though it is double, 
twelve such threads will have to be twisted together to make the finest 
thread used in weaving. Because the thread is so very fine this is a very 
difficult -process and has to be done by hand. It takes more than a thousand 
such cocoons to make a single pound. Here are facts for the inspirational 
thought of the teacher, although the children will not comprehend their 
full meaning: This country alone, in 1914, used $30,000,000 worth of raw 
silk and its silk manufacturers approximated $240,000,000. The wonderful 
little silkworm made^all this possible. Who taught the silkworm to spin? 
What is its purpose in spinning? This outline suggests study and treatment 
for cotton, flax, and wool. 

Show the cotton boll, talk about the cotton plant with its rose colored 
flowers, and the processes required to prepare it for spinning. Show the 
flax or a picture of the flax plant, and tell the children about its pretty blue 
flower and explain how the fibers are obtained from the stems. Show the 
wool and talk about the countries from which it comes and the different 
kinds of sheep. Libraries abound in books on these subjects. 

It will add to the interest of these talks if the teacher shows attractive 
and useful samples of the various textiles — cotton, wool, linen, and silk, — 
distributes them among the children, and lets them examine them. Some 
may have cotton warp and silk woof or may be otherwise mixed. Lead the 
children to make such discoveries. Talk about which is strongest and will 
wear best, which is warmest, which is coolest, and which the prettiest. Call 
the children's attention to the different weaves and lead them to give 
reasons for their answers. 

Many materials may be used in weaving — paper, rags, silk, wool, jute, 
rovings, raveled carpet yarn, cord, and thread. 

The simplest loom is made of cardboard. There are two kinds. Both 
are described: 

(Model 1.) Cut a square or rectangular piece of cardboard that is 1 in. 
larger than the piece to be made and x /i in. wider. Cut Yi in. notches in the 
ends from 3^8 to J4 in- apart according to the thickness of the warp. Have 
the notches directly opposite at the two ends. Fasten the warp thread at 
one corner, then bring it around each notch and lengthwise across the loom 
to the opposite notch, around it, and back consecutively, until the warp 
extends from edge to edge of the loom in vertical lines. If holes are punched 
}A in. below the top in place of the notches, the work cannot be removed 
without breaking the loom. 

(Model 2.) Cut square or oblong cardboard as before. Punch holes 
2 in. from the top and bottom, directly opposite each other and from }/$ to 

60 





MODEL f 





MODEL" 3' 




MOOEL 4 



MODEL S 




MODEL 6 



yi in. apart according to the thickness of the warp. Stretch a cord across 
the holes at the back on both sides and fasten tight at the sides. To thread 
this loom with warp, begin at the upper right-hand corner, fasten the end of 
warp, thread it through a hole from back to front, down across the loom to 
the opposite hole, through it, over the cord, back through the same hole 
and then to the first hole at the left. Go through this to the back, over the 
cord, back through the same hole, and across the loom to the opposite hole. 
Repeat until the loom is covered with warp. Then run a coarse knitting 
needle through the loops made by the stay cord at each side — this will 
prevent the woof from pulling in the warp at the sides. The doll's rug is 
woven on such a loom. (Model 3.) 

(Model 4.) A round mat may be woven on a circular loom. The 
warp thread should, if possible, be long enough to thread the loom with- 
out knotting. When this is necessary tie at bottom or top, never in the 
middle. In piecing the woof, run the old and the new threads together for a 
few stitches, leaving the ends to appear on the outside, as the under is the 
right side when finished. School supply houses furnish materials such as 
cords for warp and loosely twisted or coarse untwisted jute or cotton or wool 
for woof. Or ordinary cottons or wools may be used. 

A bag or purse may be woven like the rug by making the loom twice as 
long as the bag or purse is to be and sewing the sides together when it is 
completed. Or, a second way : make the loom like the oblong one described. 
Thread the warp so that it passes over one edge and over the other side 
at every turn, leaving one edge uncovered for the opening at the top. In 
this loom the weaving goes around and around instead of across and across. 
The knitting needle stays at the sides are not used for this. 

In weaving, go over and under thread after thread in turn and, if the 
needles are at the sides, go over and under them. This is the simplest of 
all weaving. 

Little GirPs Handkerchief Bag or Purse: (Models 5 and 6.) Cut a 
cardboard disk 6 in. in diameter. Sew a % i n - brass ring to each side directly 
opposite each other so that the lower edges of the rings will be 34 in. above 
the center. Draw a line across the loom just above the top of one of these 
rings and punch a row of holes 34 m - apart from one end of this line to the 
other. To thread the loom, bring the warp over the edge of the ring, down 
through a hole, up over the ring on the other side, down through a hole, up 
over the ring on the opposite side and continue until both sides are covered 
with warp. If the warp has to be pieced because, like raffia, it is in short 
strands, tie it at the bottom edge and when the weaving is completed untie 
the knots, thread the ends up through the weaving and cut them off there. 
Weave over and under strand after strand as in the other looms, covering 
both sides. Then cut the loom through the holes, take off the bag, and run a 
few rows of weaving along the edge to make the rows there close and thick. 
Buttonhole the upper part of the rings. Loop strands of the cord or raffia 
through the corners and over the rings. Braid them for cords. 



61 



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FINISHED RUG 



62 



CHAPTER X 
FROM RAGS TO RUGS 

In introducing this new craft of rug-making into our Daily Vacation 
Bible Schools we are actuated by the same motive as we were in developing 
our other industries, namely, character building in the child. 

Our object is so to cleanse these little temples committed to our care 
from the vices of laziness, selfishness, impatience, and deceit, that they may 
be fit dwellings for the Holy Spirit to live in. 

One can only repeat the message of our directors and craft teachers: 
" Our only aim is quality, not quantity, spiritually and materially. " 

We hope that as the rug, cover, or mat grows into beauty under the 
little fingers, the inward growth of the soul in patience, industry, and self- 
control may keep pace with the outward progress of the hand. 

For two reasons we must insist upon perfect work even in this rather 
difficult craft — First: This rug making is not merely an amusement or 
play, it has risen to the dignity of an art and craft, and the children are 
offered the immense advantage of getting quickly, without cost, what 
requires much time and expense in our trade schools. While we work with 
the most primitive tools which will produce results at all, those results are 
often wonderful, and compare most favorably with those of our city schools, 
when good thorough work is insisted upon. 

To allow anything but perfect work is to encourage the vices of deceit 
and laziness, instead of developing patience, industry, and that proper pride 
in turning out fine conscientious work which is at once elevating and 
ennobling, and thereby to defeat the central principle with which our 
Association has entrusted us, viz., the building of Christian character. 

Second: The practical value to the child of this craft is twofold: It 
teaches him to conserve all his resources, to save the scraps and ends of 
material which would otherwise only enlarge the waste heap, the only 
requisite being their cleanliness, and to turn these, with a little effort, into 
things of beauty and value that the bare floor may be covered, the un- 
sightly table-top hidden by a pretty cover, and at merely the expense of 
some energy and the family's cast-off garments. 

63 





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64 



Further this craft enables the boy and the girl to produce, after some 
practice, articles which are salable, being now at the height of their popu- 
larity, and so add materially to many a limited income, being thereby often 
the first step toward better things for the whole family group. The boy 
who can weave his own rug on his own loom, built by himself, and the girl 
who helps construct any or all of our six varieties of rugs, are objects of 
pride and joy to themselves and their families, and of admiration to the 
community. 

Braided Rug. 

(Model i.) Materials: percale, gingham, linen, muslin, cambric, new 
or half-worn, strips of cotton stockings, and all cotton goods not too 
heavy or sheer in weight. 

Cut in two-inch strips, seam together and turn down one fourth inch on 
each edge, crease through the center, tack three strips together evenly at 
the ends, and braid closely and evenly, seaming on new strips as needed. 
For an oval rug — measure fifteen inches of braid, turn and double the 
length, lay on flat surface with edges together, and sew with overcasting 
stitch; turn round at each end and sew in rows, holding braid loosely and 
keeping work perfectly flat. 

To make in distinct rows join each new color braid to some point on 
previous row leaving the end free, sew all around, and join the ends with 
tailor's butting stitch — light colors in center and body of rug, darker and 
heaviest colors toward and at the edge. 

Crocheted Rug. 

(Model 2.) Materials: Any soft heavy goods, such as outing or 
cotton flannel, strips of cotton stockings, or most desirable Shaker flannel, 
five yards of which make a rug about one yard in diameter ; also a ball of 
twine. 

Cut in one-inch strips, join ends with overcasting stitch, wind into balls, 
sew one end of twine firmly to end of strip, let twine run through the hand 
and strip run over forefinger of the left hand, and crochet over the twine 
with a single crochet stitch, always inserting hook in the back loop of the 
stitch, thus making distinct rows. First crochet about six inches, turn and 
work round and round, taking up back loop, putting two stitches in every 
third loop. To join on different colors in rows finish first color with tight 
slip stitch, sew on new strip, pull up in long loop and proceed with single 
crochet stitch as before. Work loosely and always take up the rope with 
every stitch. When rug is large enough, cut off strip and turn under the 
end on the wrong side and sew tightly down over the end of cut twine. 

Flat Weaving. 

(Model 3.) Materials: Shaker flannel, soft heavy wool goods, dou- 
bled strips of cotton goods like those of the braided rugs. 

65 



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WEAVING 



66 



Cut one-inch strips, but do not sew together in lengths more than one 
yard long. 

A pastry board will do well for this kind of weaving. The board must 
be the full width of the finished rug, plus one inch on each side. Measure 
one inch down from top of board, draw a line across, start one inch from 
side and mark off every half inch ; repeat marking at the bottom of board. 
Tack on a strip at the first dot at the top, leaving two inches to extend above 
tack. Draw down tightly and tack at first dot at bottom of board. Tack 
on four long strips for two-inch border, eight strips for four-inch border; 
repeat at the opposite side. On dots between these side borders, tack on 
six-inch strips for two-inch border, eleven-inch strips for four-inch border, 
leave the ends free and sew on to them the strips of contrasting color and 
tack at bottom as before. 

Fasten pin in end of a strip for the woof thread and weave across as in 
darning, tacking end of first strip to side of board. Sew on new strips as 
needed, and continue to lower line. Take out tacks, move rug up, retack, 
and weave on until rug is long enough. Then piece on short strips of the 
first color for end border as at the top, and finish weaving. When completed, 
remove tacks, turn ends of top and bottom border under on wrong side, and 
sew firmly. Line rug with firm material and finish with fringe. 

Colonial Rug. 

(Model 4.) Materials: Half -worn or new cotton goods like those for 
braided rugs except very heavy or very sheer varieties. 

Cut strips about one inch wide, lap over at ends, and sew firmly; wind 
loosely into balls. Place tacks (three-quarter inch brads) in top and bottom 
of frame one quarter inch apart ; fasten warp (coarsest Dexter cotton) with 
tack on upper left-hand corner of frame; turn over first brad, draw down and 
under first brad below, then up and around each pair of brads across width 
of board. There must be an uneven number of warp threads. Run line of 
heavy wire along with end warp thread on each side, fastening with wire 
nails at top and bottom of frame. Fill the shuttle with woof, fasten end of 
woof to lower left-hand corner of frame, and weave across until shuttle 
is empty. Fasten on end of new woof to old strip and continue until 
completed. 

Do not fasten on new woof at edge of rug, but about one inch inside of 
edge. 

Borders of contrasting color, at the ends wide and in the body narrow, 
are in good taste. Borders should always be outlined in black, strips of 
black cotton stocking being excellent for the purpose. 

Use ordinary coarse comb for a batten to push down woof threads close 
together, and batten down each line firmly. 

Do not draw in woof lines closely at the sides but let them stand away 
from wire about one quarter inch ; push wire out on each side every time a 
woof line is woven across. 

Finish with fringe of heavy cotton. 

67 



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The Indian Blanket. 

(Model 5.) Materials: Fourfold worsted or four strands of carpet 
yarn. Place brads in top and bottom of the frame one quarter inch apart ; 
fasten warp (medium weight cotton) with tack on upper left hand corner of 
frame ; turn over first brad, draw down tightly, turn under first brad below, 
then up and around each pair of brads across width of frame. There must 
be an uneven number of warp threads. 

Run line of heavy wire along with end warp thread on each side, fasten- 
ing with wire nails at top and bottom of frame. 

Fill shuttle with yarn, fasten end to lower left-hand corner and weave 
across until shuttle is empty. 

Fill shuttle as needed but do not join ends of woof threads, let them 
extend out on surface of rug about two inches and start new thread two 
inches back of end of old thread, under the same warp lines. 

Do not begin new woof at the edge of rug. 

The color scheme suggested on the diagram can be reversed or any other 
substituted, but all borders and patterns must be outlined with black. 

Use ordinary coarse comb for a batten to push down woof threads close 
together, and batten down each line very firmly. Do not draw in woof lines 
closely at the sides but let them stand away from the wire about one quarter 
inch; push wire out on each side every time a woof line is woven across. 

Hooked Rug. 

(Model 6.) Materials: Woolen flannel, or heavy loosely woven cloth 
can be used if flannel is not available. 

Stretch burlap or sacking on a stout wood frame with the warp lines of 
the burlap running exactly parallel with the sides of the frame, and tack the 
doubled under edges firmly on the under side of frame. 

Apply design to the upper side of the frame with small brush and diluted 
laundry bluing. 

Use ruler to outline borders and stencil to put in figures. 

Cut strips about three eighths wide and not more than eighteen inches 
long. 

Place frame across backs of two chairs, take strip in left hand and hold 
loop of it close up against the under side of the burlap; take hook in the 
right hand, push down through hole in burlap and draw up loop one half 
inch above the surface. Work in straight lines as much as possible and set 
the loops about two holes apart. 

First outline all borders and figures and lines with black and set these 
outline loops end to end; set other loops side by side wherever possible. 

When whole surface is covered closely, push up from wrong side with 
left hand and shear off tops of loops with sharp shears. Take small stiff 
brush and brush surface of rug firmly from end to end, all strokes to be 
made in the same direction, until surface is soft and wooly. 

Take off frame, turn loose edges of burlap down on wrong side of rug, 
baste down, and line the rug with stout material like denim or galatea. 

69 



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71 




Daily Vacation Bible School Boys Making Hammocks 



CHAPTER XI 
CORD 

Watch the cord carefully. Keep it in a safe place when not in use and 
have out but a small amount during industrial hour. 

It is a simple matter for a boy to conceal a quantity of cord in his blouse, 
but the effect upon him morally is so serious, that temptation must not be 
placed in his way. Vigilance is especially needed during the first week of 
school. 

Make no promises that the boys shall own the hammocks made by them, 
unless the material is paid for. Each full-sized hammock requires about two 
pounds of cord. 

Cord comes in different sizes, colors, and materials which determine its 
use. 

Laces for one dollar a gross or towel tape on large spools of iooo yards for 
$1.35, are sold at department stores. 

KNOTS 



Knots have served as a primitive language between tribes, color and 
kinds having their own symbolic signification. They have a decorative 
purpose in garments for man, trappings for horses, and house furnishings. 
In almost every walk of life a knot is of some use— for joining loose ends, to 

72 




KNOTS 



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73 



NEEDLE N9S. 



insure strength, for decoration, for covering surfaces, and for shortening 

lengths. 

The first end which is usually fastened to something stationary, sailors 
call the "standing part"; the distance between this and the "end," the 

"bight." 

Single Knot. The sailor's description: "Pass the end over the stand- 
ing part and through the bight." This single knot, called by some the 
"running knot, " is the simplest of all knots. One or more strings may be 
used. The knots must all be pulled with equal tension in order to have 
them the same size, and great care must be used to have them equidistant. 
This single knot may be used for chains, fans, whistles, and keys, and for 
doll hammocks and bags. 

* Figure-of-Eight Knot or Flemish Knot. (Fig. 2) : Pass the end of 
the rope to the left, back over and around the standing part and down 
through the first bight. 

* Square or Sailor's Knot. (Figs. 3a and 3b): Make a single knot, 
throwing right-hand thread over left-hand thread and through the loop; 
pass same thread (now left-hand thread) over right-hand thread and up 
through second loop. Draw tight. 

* Weaver's or Thumb Knot. (Figs. 4a and 4b) : Weavers call this the 
tnumb knot because it is made over the thumb of the left hand and is used 
in joining ends as they break. Hammock makers use this knot to join 
their cord. Lay new left-hand strand over end of strand connected with 
work. Hold tight with thumb and finger of left hand. Pass standing part 
over thumb, back under original end and forward over new end. Pass new 
end over thumb through loop thus formed. Hold original end and stand- 
ing part with right hand and other two ends in left hand. Pull evenly. 

* Solomon's Knot. (Fig. 5) : Tie four strands at one end and fasten 
firmly to table with thumb tack. Pass strand on extreme left over two 
center strands, under strand on extreme right ; pass out this strand on ex- 
treme right under two center strands and up through loop at left. Pull up 
flat and tight, keeping center strands straight. This is one half the knot. 
There is a bar on right side. There is always a bar on one side. Begin with 
strand under this bar. Pass right-hand strand over the two center strands, 
under strand on left. Pass strand on left under center strands and up 
through loop at right. This completes the knot. Continue alternately 
from right to left until braid is of required length or needed number of knots 
has been made. 

HAMMOCK NETTING 

Materials: \Y 2 lb. soft seine cord No. 32; 1 mesh board; 1 hammock 
needle; 2 two-inch japanned rings. 

Wind needle No. 1 by bringing cord around the end at A , up one side 
around the pin B and back the same side. Repeat this process on other side 
of needle. 

Screw a hook securely to some firm place. If impractical to screw this 

74 



hook into the woodwork an S hook may be hooked into string which has 
been wound several times around a pillar or some firm support. Upon this 
hook hang one hammock ring which may be easily removed when the 
hammock is to be turned. 

In order to prevent tangles wind the skein of cord into a ball. Tie end 
of cord to ring, Fig. I, A, with figure-of-eight knot which will not slip leaving 
a 2-inch end of cord, Fig. i, R. This end may be laid along ring under cord, 
hiding it as work proceeds. Hold mesh board firmly, bottom of mesh board 
1 8 in. below ring. Bring cord down and over mesh board, back and up 
through ring and down through loop thus formed. Fig. I , B. Draw up tight 
to ring, holding at crossing with thumb and first finger of left hand. Pass 
needle up through ring again, Fig. I, C, and down through loop thus formed 
Fig. i, D, holding thumb in position as long as possible to prevent knot from 
slipping. Draw up tight. This forms one loop. Repeat until 14 loops 18 
inches long are on mesh board. Hold mesh board straight so that the loops 
will be of equal length to keep hammock straight. 

Remove from mesh board and turn ring over, letting loops hang. The 
cord now leads from ring. Always work from left to right. Pass cord 
down around mesh board twice to form double length loops, then up through 
loop Fig. 2, P. Draw to top of mesh board and hold tightly with thumb and 
first finger of left hand. Toss cord over to left, forming small loop Fig. 2, A . 
Pass back under long loop Fig. 2, B, C, coming over small loop A, Fig. 2, D. 
Draw tight, holding left thumb in position until knot is tied. Repeat 
through same long loop, Fig. 3, thus tying two knots on bottom of each long 
loop. Repeat this process on each loop, being sure to use the loop next in 
order. Fourteen long loops with two knots on bottom of each will give 
twenty-eight knots. This forms the width of hammock. Remove from 
mesh board, Fig. 4, turn ring over. On the bottom of each of these 28 loops 
put one single-length loop. Tie knot as directed but pass cord around mesh 
board only once to form single-length loop. 

Continue this netting until you have 28 rows of knots. The diamond 
formed between two rows of single loops is called a mesh. To finish ham- 
mock so that both ends shall be alike, make a double-length loop by passing 
twice around mesh board on this last row. Lay aside mesh board. Stretch 
hammock tight full length. Eighteen inches from end of last loop fasten 
second ring or have it held. Cord now leads from last loop. Pass needle up 
through ring as in first process, Fig. 1. Turn back to hammock, taking two 
loops each time, crossing left loop over the one on its right and tying knot as 
usual. Two loops are taken each time in order to reduce to 14 long loops 
as in the beginning. When these 14 loops are made, fasten end of cord 
securely to ring with figure-eight-knot and with carpet needle draw end 
along ring under cords to finish. Cut the end close. 

Note: To join a fresh needleful of cord use the sailor's or weaver's 
knot. Conceal ends by twisting them into cord either side of this knot. 



75 



Made by a Daily Vacation Bible School Boy 



CHAPTER XII 

A COURSE IN WOOD SLOYD AS TAUGHT IN PHILADELPHIA 
DAILY VACATION BIBLE SCHOOLS 

Equipment needed in the Course : 
Sloyd knife 
Pencil compass 
Rule 

Pencil and eraser 
Bass wood x\ in. or }/± in. in thickness. 



Ten Models are arranged for the course, carefully graded in difficulty 
so as not to overtax the child's ability. Each model is planned to illustrate 
some new principle of laying out, cutting, or putting together. 

Figure i. Illustrates a simple model. The child is here taught how .to 

cut with the grain and across the grain. 
Figure 2. Teaches cutting to the curved line. 
Figure 3. Illustrates more complex curved lines. 
Figure 4. Teaches the child to cut to concave and convex lines. 
Figure 5. Illustrates cutting with the grain, against the grain, across 

the grain, and obliquely. 
Figure 6. Also requires cutting in all directions. 
Figure 7. Requires cutting out the center. 
Figure 8. Teaches the child the idea of thickness. 
Figure 9. Is a three-piece model. Half-inch brads and glue are used 

to fasten the parts together. 
Figure 10. Is a five-piece model. It is more difficult than the 

last. 

76 




WORKING DRAWINGS FOR SLOYD WORK. 

"71 




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Fig. i. Pencil Sharpener 6" x ii" Fig. 6. Standard for Paper File 3 x 3 

Fig. 2. Key Tag i£" x 4}" Fig. 7. Picture Frame 3*" x 4f' 

Fig. 3. Match Striker 2}" x 4*" Fig. 8. Paper Knife 8" x 1' 

Fig. 4. Key Board 4^' x 3" Fig. 9- Pen Rack 6" x 2" 

Fig. 5. Mat 5" x 5" Fig. 10. Match Holder 3*" x 3" 



77 



F«i b 



General Directions. 

The model and the drawing should first be shown by the teacher. The 
blackboard may be used to advantage. A working drawing should be re- 
quired of the child before the work is attempted. 

These points should be observed: 
(i) Place your name on the board. 

(2) Mark the best side of the board. This is called the face or working 

side. 

(3) Make one of the long sides true. 

(4) Test it by holding the broad side ot a ruler or T-square along it and 

see that all parts evenly touch the ruler. 

(5) True the side that extends across the grain. 

(6) True the remaining sides in similar manner. 

(7) Do not cut against the grain. Cut always with it. 

(8) Hold the knife in the right hand and the wood in the left. 

(9) Cut away from the body, using long strokes. 

(10) Keep the left hand back of the blade of the knife. 

(11) Hold the knife flat on the wood. Do not cramp the hand. 

(12) Draw the knife evenly along the wood. 

( 1 3) Begin cutting at the end held away from you and take off a succession 

of chips of equal depth all the way across. 

( 1 4) Cut from the short to the long fibers of the wood when cutting a curve. 

(15) Sharpen knife as soon as it becomes dull. 

(16) Use sandpaper for cleaning the models; never for smoothing the 

surfaces. Use it with the grain; never across it. Use it along 
the sides, and up and down at the ends and curved edges. 

(17) In order to keep the sandpaper firm while using, place it over a small 

block of wood. 

(18) In staining the flat surfaces, draw the brush along the grain. Color 

evenly, and avoid overlapping. 

(19) To stain the edges, use the point of the brush. 

(20) As slight wounds are likely to occur, keep some adhesive plaster and 

sterilized gauze in a glass jar. 

The Value of Sloyd Work. 

To develop character in boys and girls by teaching them self-reliance and 
generosity; by encouraging them to do their own thinking; by developing 
self-respect rather than vanity; by teaching them the habits of order and 
neatness, and by working for others, thus getting training in good citizenship. 

SUGGESTIONS FOR OTHER MODELS 

Bow Kite, Box Kite, Bird House, Corner Bracket, Cake Paddle, Calen- 
dar Back, Crochet Needle, Doll Furniture, Flower Stick, Fish Line Reel, 
Glove Mender, Glove Box, Handkerchief Box, Key Rack, Letter Box, 
Pin Tray, Paper Knives, Paper Weight, Pen Holder, Picture Frame, Tie 
Rack, Wall Bracket, Yarn Winder. 

78 



